Svalbard, one of the northernmost inhabited areas on Earth, is a place full of extremes.
The polar night and extreme Arctic climate mean that only a few species of animals have been able to adapt to these harsh conditions.
Temperatures reaching –40 °C—the very greeting the archipelago gave me—inspired me to take on a photographic challenge in extreme conditions. To make it even more difficult, I chose the polar night. As most know, night photography is inherently time-consuming and demanding.
With a torn ligament in my right knee, I set off to conquer glaciers, moraines, and mountains, searching for the beauty of raw landscapes hidden in complete darkness!
The Svalbard Archipelago
Svalbard is an archipelago under Norwegian sovereignty but with a unique international status. According to the Svalbard Treaty of 1920, citizens of all signatory countries can settle here and use its resources, making it a demilitarized zone and a center for international scientific research.
Longyearbyen
I talk about the history of the town, interesting facts, and other details in my YouTube video – feel free to check it out:
Svalbard is home to numerous glaciers and fjords that shape dramatic landscapes. These formations not only impress visually but also play an important role as indicators of climate change.
Dog sledding through moraines and glaciers
The polar night is the low tourist season. Many agencies are not operational during this time, not only because of the lack of tourists but also due to the extreme weather conditions. Even with the best intentions to face them, it often ends in frostbite or worse.
On the first day of my visit, the snowstorm and wind were so strong that all possible excursions outside the city were canceled. The next day was similar, but the weather improved enough that one of the companies agreed to venture into the Adventdalen valley.
The terrain we traveled through was made up of moraines pushed forward by glaciers.
Moraines are accumulations of rock material and sediments left by retreating glaciers – evidence of their historical movements in Svalbard. They are intensely studied by geologists to better understand the dynamics of glaciers and past climates.
We were supposed to visit an ice cave, though in reality, it’s not a cave but tunnels formed in the summer by meltwater. Beneath our feet was a frozen stream of meltwater. It was slippery, and in many sections, we had to move on our knees.
In the dog sledding video, I share amazing scientific facts about the cave:
Snowmobiles through an ice storm
Another way to explore the icy world is on a snowmobile expedition. Together with a guide and two women (probably from Finland), we set off to discover the remote corners of Svalbard. After a quick briefing and riding training, we left behind the -36°C temperature to experience an even lower wind chill in the snowstorm.
Snowmobiles are one of the main means of transport in Svalbard, especially outside of Longyearbyen. In winter, when the roads are buried in snow, they become indispensable. They are not only an everyday mode of transportation but also the key to exploring the extraordinary Arctic landscapes.
The further you get from civilization, the greater the chances of encountering a polar bear. The adrenaline from riding the snowmobile mixes with an extra thrill – greater than the risk of an ordinary crash.
Over more than 100 km of riding, we experienced a full range of Arctic conditions – from snowstorms where visibility dropped to zero, to clear skies with the northern lights subtly dancing above.
You can see the entire snowmobile experience along with many geographical and geological facts in my YouTube video:
Global Seed Vault
I won’t hide it – this was my little photographic cherry on top. An incredible place, visually unique, and rarely seen with your own eyes.
The Global Seed Vault – hidden in a tunnel carved into the permafrost on the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, on the island of Spitsbergen. It was created to safely store seeds of edible plants from around the world. The building operates without a permanent staff, and its harsh Arctic environment provides natural preservation conditions. It is one of the most important places in the world in terms of biodiversity protection and securing the future of agriculture in the face of climate change and global crises.
I talk about what this seed bank is, why it was created, and how it works on YouTube:
Arctic hiking
To truly experience the Arctic world, you need to hike through the mountains. Unfortunately, during my stay in Svalbard, the longest available expeditions were day trips. I dreamed of a multi-day trek across this land, but this time, I had to settle for two eight-hour hikes.
One of the expeditions ended with the exploration of ice tunnels. The path to them was dangerous – only the guide knew the way. Why? The route led through numerous, several-meter-deep crevasses covered by a thin layer of ice. It’s easy to guess how these tunnels were discovered…
The mountains in Svalbard have a unique shape. Just a few thousand years ago, the region was covered by a thick layer of ice. As the glaciers melted, water sculpted the peaks, creating unique, stepped formations. This is a trace of the Ice Age – a journey through time visible at every step. Climbing these mountains is not only a challenge but also a geology lesson and a testament to the power of nature, which continuously shapes our planet.
In search of the Northern Lights
I didn’t manage to take a firearms course to rent one and venture out of the city alone, but tourist agencies came to the rescue. Thanks to them, you can reach convenient observation spots near Longyearbyen.
Svalbard is located a bit too far geographically. The Northern Lights appear here often, but they are not as intense as in northern Norway.
I monitored the forecasts and conditions daily through the app and stayed in contact with the carrier. When the day of increased activity finally arrived, we immediately set off on the hunt.
In conclusion
The photographic challenge I set for myself turned out to be pure pleasure. Although the frost caused instant pain and my hand stiffened within moments, I spent many hours taking night shots.
Night landscapes have a unique plasticity that can’t be achieved in any other way. In terms of light – or rather, its absence – the polar night in Svalbard was perfect. I’m rarely fully satisfied with my photos, but a few of the ones I took are truly special to me.
The real challenge, however, was shooting daily vlogs, which I invite you to watch. Filming in complete darkness and extreme cold is an achievement I’m proud of.
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