The polar night and extreme Arctic climate mean that only a few species of animals have been able to adapt to these harsh conditions.

Temperatures reaching –40 °C—the very greeting the archipelago gave me—inspired me to take on a photographic challenge in extreme conditions. To make it even more difficult, I chose the polar night. As most know, night photography is inherently time-consuming and demanding.

With a torn ligament in my right knee, I set off to conquer glaciers, moraines, and mountains, searching for the beauty of raw landscapes hidden in complete darkness!

The Svalbard Archipelago

Svalbard is an archipelago under Norwegian sovereignty but with a unique international status. According to the Svalbard Treaty of 1920, citizens of all signatory countries can settle here and use its resources, making it a demilitarized zone and a center for international scientific research.

Longyearbyen

I talk about the history of the town, interesting facts, and other details in my YouTube video – feel free to check it out:

Svalbard is home to numerous glaciers and fjords that shape dramatic landscapes. These formations not only impress visually but also play an important role as indicators of climate change.

Dog sledding through moraines and glaciers

The polar night is the low tourist season. Many agencies are not operational during this time, not only because of the lack of tourists but also due to the extreme weather conditions. Even with the best intentions to face them, it often ends in frostbite or worse.

On the first day of my visit, the snowstorm and wind were so strong that all possible excursions outside the city were canceled. The next day was similar, but the weather improved enough that one of the companies agreed to venture into the Adventdalen valley.

The terrain we traveled through was made up of moraines pushed forward by glaciers.

Moraines are accumulations of rock material and sediments left by retreating glaciers – evidence of their historical movements in Svalbard. They are intensely studied by geologists to better understand the dynamics of glaciers and past climates.

We were supposed to visit an ice cave, though in reality, it’s not a cave but tunnels formed in the summer by meltwater. Beneath our feet was a frozen stream of meltwater. It was slippery, and in many sections, we had to move on our knees.

In the dog sledding video, I share amazing scientific facts about the cave:

Snowmobiles through an ice storm

Another way to explore the icy world is on a snowmobile expedition. Together with a guide and two women (probably from Finland), we set off to discover the remote corners of Svalbard. After a quick briefing and riding training, we left behind the -36°C temperature to experience an even lower wind chill in the snowstorm.

Snowmobiles are one of the main means of transport in Svalbard, especially outside of Longyearbyen. In winter, when the roads are buried in snow, they become indispensable. They are not only an everyday mode of transportation but also the key to exploring the extraordinary Arctic landscapes.

The further you get from civilization, the greater the chances of encountering a polar bear. The adrenaline from riding the snowmobile mixes with an extra thrill – greater than the risk of an ordinary crash.

Over more than 100 km of riding, we experienced a full range of Arctic conditions – from snowstorms where visibility dropped to zero, to clear skies with the northern lights subtly dancing above.

You can see the entire snowmobile experience along with many geographical and geological facts in my YouTube video:

Global Seed Vault

I won’t hide it – this was my little photographic cherry on top. An incredible place, visually unique, and rarely seen with your own eyes.

The Global Seed Vault – hidden in a tunnel carved into the permafrost on the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, on the island of Spitsbergen. It was created to safely store seeds of edible plants from around the world. The building operates without a permanent staff, and its harsh Arctic environment provides natural preservation conditions. It is one of the most important places in the world in terms of biodiversity protection and securing the future of agriculture in the face of climate change and global crises.

I talk about what this seed bank is, why it was created, and how it works on YouTube:

Arctic hiking

To truly experience the Arctic world, you need to hike through the mountains. Unfortunately, during my stay in Svalbard, the longest available expeditions were day trips. I dreamed of a multi-day trek across this land, but this time, I had to settle for two eight-hour hikes.

One of the expeditions ended with the exploration of ice tunnels. The path to them was dangerous – only the guide knew the way. Why? The route led through numerous, several-meter-deep crevasses covered by a thin layer of ice. It’s easy to guess how these tunnels were discovered…

The mountains in Svalbard have a unique shape. Just a few thousand years ago, the region was covered by a thick layer of ice. As the glaciers melted, water sculpted the peaks, creating unique, stepped formations. This is a trace of the Ice Age – a journey through time visible at every step. Climbing these mountains is not only a challenge but also a geology lesson and a testament to the power of nature, which continuously shapes our planet.

In search of the Northern Lights

I didn’t manage to take a firearms course to rent one and venture out of the city alone, but tourist agencies came to the rescue. Thanks to them, you can reach convenient observation spots near Longyearbyen.

Svalbard is located a bit too far geographically. The Northern Lights appear here often, but they are not as intense as in northern Norway.

I monitored the forecasts and conditions daily through the app and stayed in contact with the carrier. When the day of increased activity finally arrived, we immediately set off on the hunt.

In conclusion

The photographic challenge I set for myself turned out to be pure pleasure. Although the frost caused instant pain and my hand stiffened within moments, I spent many hours taking night shots.

Night landscapes have a unique plasticity that can’t be achieved in any other way. In terms of light – or rather, its absence – the polar night in Svalbard was perfect. I’m rarely fully satisfied with my photos, but a few of the ones I took are truly special to me.

The real challenge, however, was shooting daily vlogs, which I invite you to watch. Filming in complete darkness and extreme cold is an achievement I’m proud of.

Post Svalbard – The Arctic expedition pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Let’s Start with the Basics

Norway, although seemingly small, hides many amazing attractions. The country is home to just 5.5 million people, making it the second least populated country in Europe, right behind Iceland. Don’t be fooled by this number, however, as Norway is justly sized despite its small population. As a result, a week’s travel is probably too short to explore the length and breadth of the country. We, despite having spent a month on a motorcycle in Norway, know that we will still have to return there one day.

A Bit of Geography

Norway is located on the Scandinavian Peninsula, one of the oldest areas on the European continent, bordering with Sweden and Finland. If you have enough time, consider visiting these two countries as well.

The northern part of the peninsula is located in the Lapland region, inhabited—among others—by the Saami people. Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to get acquainted with their culture during our trip, but we will definitely make up for it in the future!

Fun fact: The Saami people still toil in traditional activities. They are no strangers to fishing, hunting, or reindeer husbandry. Animistic beliefs—those according to which animals, plants, and objects have a soul—and elements of shamanistic practices are still present in their culture. They practice yoiking, a rhythmic form of chanting, as well as ornamentation in materials such as bones, wood, and horns. They also still dress in their traditional, highly colorful folk costumes.

Preparing for a Trip

The start of planning a trip should always be preceded by decent research. So let’s go through all the basics.

Language: Do They Speak English in Norway?

Norwegian is the official language. Interestingly, there are two official varieties of Norwegian: bokmål (more popular) and nynorsk. That’s not all, though, as there are also various dialects, differing in pronunciation, grammar, syntax, and vocabulary. Tourists, however, need not worry if they don’t speak Norwegian. Most Norwegians speak English, at least at a basic level, so there should be no problem with communication in hotels, stores, or gas stations. Of course, the locals are always happy when you know a few basic phrases, so at the end of this post, you will find a list of useful vocabulary.

Fun fact: It‘s said that there are as many varieties of Norwegian as there are municipalities in Norway. It’s assumed that there may be more than 400 of them, although this is not official information. Because of such a large number of dialects, often even Norwegians can have problems understanding each other.

Currency and Payments in Norway: Card or Cash?

The official currency of Norway is the Norwegian krone (NOK). If you come to Norway with euros, we recommend exchanging them for kroner at the first opportunity. In our experience, it’s not necessary to have cash in Norway, but it’s always a good idea to have some with you just in case.

In most places in Norway, you can safely pay by card—we have always used cards at gas stations, stores, and campsites. Cash comes in handy only when you want to buy something by the roadside. In Norway, you can find many roadside stalls selling fresh cherries, strawberries, or other fruits. In such places, there is no cashier, only a box into which you drop money. And remember, Norwegians count on our honesty.

Seasons: When Is the Best Time to Visit Norway?

Let me use the famous “it depends!” here 😉

The period from June to August is probably the most often considered by everyone. This is the vacation season, so there are the best conditions to go. But of course, it’s the period when other tourists from all parts of the world will want to visit Norway too, as well as Norwegians themselves, who are then eager to pack up their RVs and head to the other end of the country.

If, on the other hand, you want to observe a magical spectacle in the sky, and maybe ski or snowboard, winter is the obvious choice. However, keep in mind that Norway is a country where days are extremely short in winter, and in some places (with latitudes higher than 67°23′) there’s a polar night. We, for sure, will add to this guide our impressions of the polar night, as we are planning to go to Svalbard soon.

The time between the middle of summer and the middle of winter doesn’t seem like a bad idea either. Of course, we may end up with slightly worse weather, but we will have a bit more free space to ourselves. The days will be long enough to go on a longer hike, and if we visit the right place we may even still be able to observe the aurora borealis.

So it seems that there is always a good time to visit Norway. We just have to think about our priorities. Will it be hours of mountain hiking or aurora hunting? The choice isn’t easy, but fortunately, we can always visit Norway several times.

We set off to Norway by motorcycle in mid-July and can definitely recommend this period.

Fun fact: Auroras are formed as a result of solar activity. As the solar wind approaches Earth, it encounters our planet’s magnetic field. Most of the solar wind is blocked by the magnetosphere, but some ions become temporarily trapped in areas around the Earth, called the ionosphere. These areas are concentrated around the Earth’s geomagnetic poles. In the ionosphere, solar wind ions collide with oxygen and nitrogen atoms from Earth’s atmosphere. The energy released from these collisions causes a glowing halo around the poles, which we know as auroras. Auroras typically occur about 97-1000 kilometers above the Earth’s surface. The colors of the auroras can vary depending on the altitude and type of atoms—they can be red, green-yellow, blue or purple.

Other: What Else Should I Know?

Time zone: CET
Electrical outlets: type C and F; 230V 50Hz

What Is Worth Visiting? What Is Worth Experiencing?

I think we can all agree that Norway is not a wallet-friendly destination. So it’s not surprising that many people avoid this country when traveling in Europe. Nonetheless, you can find quite a few free outdoor attractions to pass the time without having to spend a lot of money. Let’s take a look at this option first.

Nature

First of all, Norway offers many free hiking trails and national parks, where you can explore Norway’s wilderness for hours. Thanks to allemannsretten (right of access to nature), all public areas are free. So you don’t have to pay for entrance to a national park and can wander wherever you like. However, it’s worth remembering to respect nature and leave only footprints.

Norway is home to fjords—long, narrow bays filled with salt water that make up most of the Norwegian coastline.

The most famous one is probably Geirangerfjord. Its crystal clear waters are surrounded by high mountains, waterfalls, and green valleys, creating an amazing landscape. No wonder Geirangerfjord is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can enjoy the views from a 1,500-meter platform, walk or kayak here. However, Geirangerfjord is not the only breathtaking fjord in Norway. Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord also offer their own unique beauty and charm and are also UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

If you are looking for the longest and deepest fjord, Sognefjord should be your destination. It stretches 205 kilometers inland from the ocean to the small village of Skjolden and reaches a maximum depth of 1308 meters! While admiring the fjord, you can also take a quick trip to one of the national parks: Jotunheimen or Jostedalsbreen.

If you wish to see wild animals, chances are you will be able to meet them in Rondane National Park. There you can encounter bears, lynx, moose, wolves, and reindeer. The Femundsmarka or Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella national parks are also worth a visit. The former is home to reindeer and the latter to musk oxen.

Last on our mini list, and perhaps the most popular destination, is the picturesque Lofoten Islands. This archipelago is located north of the polar circle and it’s famous for its breathtaking landscapes. The islands are a popular destination for nature lovers, photographers, and fishermen. There you can enjoy majestic mountains, white sandy beaches, and traditional, colorful fishing huts, called rorbuer.

Cities and Culture

In addition to its beautiful nature, Norway also offers a rich culture and traditions. In major cities such as Oslo and Bergen, you can visit museums, art galleries, and historical landmarks. Many of these places offer free admission or discounts for students and children.

During our trip, we had the opportunity to visit three well-known Norwegian cities: Oslo, Tromsø, and Ålesund. Each of them was unique.

In Oslo, we were in awe of the opera house, whose architecture and design are astounding. We also had the opportunity to eat very good food at Mathallen Food Hall and My Ugly Baby. After 30 days of cooking on the road, it was really something! Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to visit the Munch Museum, but it is definitely on our to-do list when we visit Oslo next time.

We also walked around Tromsø, a city located in the northern part of Norway, within the Arctic Circle. It’s famous for its unique architecture, influenced by the harsh climate and traditional Sami culture. One of the most famous examples of architecture in Tromsø is the Arctic Cathedral, a modernist church designed by Jan Inge Hovig in 1965. The church is made of concrete and glass, and its distinctive shape is inspired by the peaks of the surrounding mountains. Other notable architectural landmarks in Tromsø include the Polaria Aquarium—a “domino” building whose design depicts ice floes that have been forced ashore by rough Arctic seas—and the Polar Museum.

Ålesund, located on Norway’s west coast, is known as “Norway’s Venice.” The city’s Art Nouveau architecture is stunning, and the city’s location on a fjord provides breathtaking views. We especially enjoyed the views from Aksla Hill, which offers a panoramic view of the city.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit all the cities in Norway we wanted to, but Bergen and Trondheim, among others, are already on our list to visit in the future.

No matter which city in Norway you choose, you’re sure to find plenty of things to see and do.

Cuisine

Although food in Norway can be expensive, it’s worth trying some of the local dishes. The country is famous for its fish and seafood, so it’s a good idea to visit local fish markets and try fresh produce. You should also try fiskekaker, which can even be found in markets.

Another option is to try reindeer meat, either in the form of stew or sausage.

Norway is also known for brunost, which is a brown caramel cheese that doesn’t taste like cheese at all.

Transportation

OK, but how do you even get around Norway? Depending on whether you are going on a city break to any of the major cities or on a longer trip, you have different options.

In the case of city breaks, it’s quite simple, as you can easily get around major cities by public transportation or simply on foot. If, on the other hand, you are planning a detour and you arrive in the country by plane, the natural option would be to rent a car or motorcycle. You can also come here in your own car or motorcycle, as we did. And there is one more option you should keep in mind and it is…

Local Ferries

In Norway, local ferries are a common mode of transportation for tourists and locals alike. They provide a convenient way to travel between various islands and coastal towns, often offering great views of the surrounding countryside as well. Some ferries carry cars and motorcycles, while others are for pedestrians only.

To board a ferry, purchase a ticket online or directly before boarding. If you know that you will be using this option frequently, consider creating an account on the respective ferry operator’s website. This way you will have access to your cruises and payment history.

During our trip, we mainly used Torghatten Nord, but not for any particular reason—it simply went where we happened to want to go. There are many ferry companies in Norway, each with its own routes and fleets. Some of them are:

• Fjord1: Operates a network of ferries mainly in the western and northern parts of the country. It also offers the popular Fjord1 Express Boat service between Bergen and Stavanger.
• Torghatten Nord: Specializes in ferry service in northern Norway, including the well-known route between Bodø and Lødingen.
• Hurtigruten: This is one of Norway’s best-known ferry companies. Hurtigruten offers coastal ferry services along the entire length of the Norwegian coast, starting from Bergen in the south and ending in Kirkenes in the north.
• Boreal Transport: Operates a fleet of ferries mainly in the western and northern parts of Norway, including routes between Bergen and the Hardangerfjord islands.
• Color Line: Offers various routes between Norway and Denmark. One popular route is between Oslo and Frederikshavn.

Fun fact: Norway has a considerable number of local ferries, especially in the western and northern parts of the country, where fjords and islands can make land transportation difficult. Some have been operating for more than 100 years and have become an integral part of local culture and history. Others are equipped with specialized features that help them navigate icy waters and harsh weather conditions. According to the Norwegian Public Roads Administration, there are currently about 200 ferries operating on regular routes in Norway, serving a total of about 2,000 ferry berths.

Fv17 Route

I must admit that we knew little—in fact, nothing—about the local ferries before arriving in Norway. We only became familiar with them when the Fv17 route was recommended to us.

Fv17, also known as the Helgeland Coast Road, is a scenic road in Norway that stretches for about 700 kilometers along the coast of the Helgeland region in the north of the country. It begins in the town of Mo i Rana and ends in Sandnessjøen, passing through many smaller towns and villages along the way. The route is known for its stunning coastal views, with beautiful landscapes that include fjords, mountains, and forests. Driving along this route, one can come across various attractions such as the Helgeland Museum, the Kystmuseet Museum, and the Saltstraumen Maelstrom.

Fv17 is well-maintained and has a good network of rest areas and parking lots, making it a popular route for tourists, though still not as popular as E6. Perhaps this is because E6 is a bit easier in terms of logistics, as it doesn’t have… as many ferry crossings. It was during our route along the Fv17 road that we encountered the first local ferry, and then more. The crossings are mostly short routes and such a ferry trip doesn’t take long—usually about 15-20 minutes.

Fun fact: Saltstraumen Maelstrom is one of the most powerful tidal phenomena in the world, characterized by water speeds of up to 20 knots (30 km/h). The Maelstrom is formed in a narrow channel between the islands of Bodøya and Straumøya, creating a funnel effect at high tide. These powerful tidal eddies are responsible for the formation of many small islands and rocks in the area, as well as the erosion of the shoreline. Saltstraumen Maelstrom is also home to the largest population of sea trout in the world. These impressive fish can reach lengths of up to 2 meters and weights of up to 25 kilograms. Sea trout are attracted to strong currents and an abundance of food, which means they can be observed swimming in the water or jumping out of it to catch insects.

Gas Stations

Now that we’ve taken a detour, let’s spend a minute at gas stations. Bensinstasjoner are a common sight in Norway and are generally easily accessible. Most are open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

There are two types of gas stations: The types of stations are two: manned and unmanned. The former are larger and are usually located along major roads and highways, as well as in urban areas. Many of them belong to chains such as Circle K, Esso, or Shell. Often you can not only refuel at them but also get some food, use the restroom, or wash your car/motorcycle.

Unmanned stations, on the other hand, are in less frequented areas and only have dispensers. You won’t see an employee there, let alone a convenience store.

However, refueling can be a bit complicated, so especially the first time, you can be a bit confused. Often to refuel, you first have to select the type of fuel on the screen and then go to the dispenser. It may also be the case that when selecting fuel, you have to choose the amount you want to refuel for. You either pay directly at the dispenser or at the cash register in the building. It depends on the station. It’s a good idea to do the first refueling on your own at a station where you will find staff to help you if you need it.

Fun fact: Fuel prices in Norway can vary depending on many factors, such as the location of the gas station, the type of fuel, current market conditions, and even the day of the week.

Grocery Shopping

Food in Norway is quite expensive, especially for tourists who may not be familiar with the local market and prices. However, there are a few ways to save, and one of the most effective is to shop at the right stores.

Rema 1000 and Kiwi are discount chains known for their low prices and wide selection of groceries. Both have stores in most cities and towns in Norway and are generally considered one of the cheapest grocery shopping options in the country, ideal for the budget-conscious.

In addition to shopping at the respective stores, you can also:

• Buy in bulk: If you are staying in Norway for an extended period of time and/or have access to more space, buying in bulk can be a good way to save a few pennies. Many discount stores and supermarkets offer bulk discounts on items such as rice, pasta, and other nonperishables.
• Look for sales and discounts: Many supermarkets regularly offer discounts, especially on products that are nearing their expiration dates. Keep an eye out for these offers and stock up on discounted products whenever you can.
• Shop at local markets: Local markets and farmers’ markets can be a good source of fresh, locally grown produce at lower prices. In addition, these markets are also a great way to experience local culture and try new foods.
• Consider setting up a discount card: Some supermarkets and discount stores in Norway offer discount cards or loyalty programs that allow customers to earn points or discounts on purchases. If you plan to do a lot of grocery shopping, it’s worth investing in one such card.

We, while in Norway, relied mainly on the aforementioned Rema 1000 or Kiwi. By shopping there, we were able to stretch our food budget even further. Sometimes, especially in more remote areas, we stocked up at Coop or Joker. They were a bit more expensive and had a fairly limited number of products, but it’s always better than nothing.

And while we’re talking about shopping, one thing is worth remembering: non-trade Sundays. In Norway, stores and services (such as car repair stores) are closed on Sundays, so you should plan your shopping well. Especially if you know that you are already approaching an area where it will be difficult to find a store on Friday. It’s a good idea to stock up then, as long as you have a way to store it, of course. We, traveling by motorcycle, had to be very careful especially when buying products that should rather be stored in a refrigerator.

Places to Stay

We don’t want to cover the most obvious option here, i.e. hotels—these can be easily found on Booking or Airbnb. Instead, we’ll focus on options that fit Norway like a glove, namely camping and sleeping in the wild.

Campings

Norway is a country known for its stunning beauty, and camping is the perfect way for visitors to experience it. From the fjords on the west coast to the mountains in the east, campings can be found everywhere.

In Norway, campgrounds can vary widely. Many have a range of amenities, including showers, toilets, and access to electricity. Some may also offer additional amenities, such as kitchens, laundry facilities, and playgrounds for children.

In terms of cost, campgrounds in Norway can range from about NOK 150 to 300 per night for a standard campsite with basic amenities. Some campgrounds may also offer discounts for longer stays, but we didn’t take advantage of this as we changed our accommodations every night. The cost also varies by location and season. In general, campsites in more remote or popular locations can be more expensive than those in less popular areas. And well, during the peak tourist season, prices tend to be higher.

Wild Camping

Is it possible to spend the night in the wild in Norway? Yes! The aforementioned allemansretten, or “right to roam”, is one of the unique aspects of Norway. It guarantees that everyone can enjoy Norwegian nature and public lands. Whether you are a local or a tourist, you can freely hike, pitch a tent, pick berries or fish, and enjoy the beauty of Norwegian nature.

Of course, there are a few rules to follow. It’s important to respect the environment and animals, not leave trash, not trespass on private land, and remember to protect wildlife. Also, do not start a campfire if there is a danger that the fire will spread quickly.

And it is thanks to this law that you can wild camp in Norway, thus saving a lot of money. So if you are exploring Norway in a campervan or car or motorcycle and have a tent with you, go ahead and find a quiet spot and spend the night right there. The rules are simple: you must be at least 150 meters from the nearest inhabited house, and if you want to stay longer than two nights in the same place, you must ask permission from the landowner. Details can be found on the official visitnorway.com website.

And so we are slowly reaching the end. But before that, we wanted to share with you two useful apps, souvenir ideas, and the aforementioned list of phrases.

Useful Apps: Finding Accommodations and Checking the Weather

If you don’t know how to find a campsite other than on Google Maps or are looking for an idea of a good place to sleep in the wild, the NorCamp app can be of assistance. With it, you can find campgrounds, glades, or hytter all over Norway (and some other countries too). The selection is huge, so you’re sure to find something to your liking. The app also shows parking lots and rest areas. Quite a few places have photos and descriptions, so you can check if any amenities, such as showers, are available at a given campground. You can also check what period the place is open, what the prices are, or read reviews. Not every place is perfectly described, but this app is a great convenience when traveling.

If you want to have a very good weather forecast at hand, we recommend Yr. We learned about it from the locals and it was indispensable throughout the trip. It didn’t let us down once and often helped us avoid the rain. It’s definitely a better option than Google weather, which is not so precise. Yr also shows additional information, such as forest fire risk, air quality, aurora activity, or pollen count in the air.

Souvenirs: What to Bring from Norway?

We won’t write here about mugs, keychains, or troll figurines, but rather something more unique to this country. Although, we must admit, not necessarily cheap.

First, traditional Norwegian sweaters—icons of Norwegian craftsmanship. They are made of high-quality wool and decorated with distinctive patterns. They cost a fair amount of money, but if your budget allows you to buy it, do it. Especially if you’re constantly freezing. Of course, there will also be more wallet-friendly versions, but keep in mind that then the composition of such a sweater may contain traces of wool.

Another popular souvenir is silver products from the Hardanger region, such as bracelets, necklaces, earrings, or home decorations. They are characterized by precise workmanship and beautiful designs inspired by traditional Norwegian motifs.

And then there’s something more standard. If you’re a fan of food, it’s worth taking home some Norwegian delicacies. Fish oil, brunost, reindeer sausage, and cloudberry jam are just some of the suggestions. 

Glossary

Norwegians are seen as a rather not-really-approachable people, cold as their country. What can I say, they are definitely not fond of overly pushy people, but they will certainly—like everyone else—appreciate it when you know a few words in their language. So here’s a short table of the most useful phrases.

Want to find out what our motorcycle trip to Norway was like?

Also, check out our YouTube, where you can watch videos from Norway and more!

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Our route continued along the Taurus mountain range. This is one of Turkiye’s three largest mountain ranges. It’s located near the shore of the Mediterranean Sea, therefore you can easily admire the great waters from amazing steep cliffs.

A Plethora of Ruins

The entire southern coast on my map is covered with pins marking where the ancient ruins are located. During our tour, we managed to see just the peril of what Turkiye has to offer.

Many of these ruins are “wild.” No entrance fees or tickets are needed, and there are no tourists there. You just need to know where to look. Adventure anywhere!

These Rocks Have Been on Fire for More than 2,500 Years!

Yanartaş – “burning stone” in Turkish. This is a unique place, with the largest abiogenic methane emissions ever discovered on land. Interestingly, the gas emissions are not of volcanic origin.

It’s believed that the ruthenium present in the magma rocks beneath the flames acts as a catalyst, enabling the formation of methane at temperatures lower (below 100°C) than would normally be needed.

The Element of Water

After playing with fire, it was time to cool down. We headed to the beautiful Düden waterfalls in Antalya, and then…

… we were surprised by a powerful cloudburst. It extinguished our hopes of visiting Saklikent National Park. Almost as quickly as we entered we were evacuated because of the threat of flooding in the canyon.

Of course, we tried to ride even in the rain. Every now and then, however, a short but intense downpour, accompanied by nearby thunder, appeared. In such moments, we waited it out under a roof we found. Turkish hospitality is something that will live long in our memory. Each time, the hosts of the inns welcomed us with a smile and a hot çay, and sometimes even with a snack.

Pamukkale Cotton Castle

They are said to resemble cotton. In my opinion, Pamukkale looks more like an open-pit salt mine. I know there’s no such thing as an open-pit salt mine, but it was the first thing that came to my mind when I saw the travertine terraces.

At the site, hot springs rich in calcium and carbon dioxide compounds cool at the surface and precipitate calcium carbonate. This process has been going on continuously for about 14,000 years!

How Much Does the Trojan Horse Weigh?

At the end of our tour, we crossed the remarkable 1915 Çanakkale Bridge. It’s 4608 meters long which makes it the longest suspension bridge in the world.

Interestingly, there are some symbolic figures associated with the bridge. “1915” in the name, the date of the bridge’s opening (March 18) and the height of the towers (318m) commemorate the Battle of Çanakkale (March 18, 1915) and the victory of the Ottoman Empire. The span of the bridge (2023m) symbolizes the 100th anniversary of the proclamation of the republic (1923-2023).

There’s another interesting thing associated with the city of Çanakkale. If you are familiar with the 2004 film Troy, in which Brad Pitt played the role of Achilles, you’ll probably recognize the horse in the photos below. This nearly 12-meter giant was given as a gift to the city of Çanakkale after the film shooting ended. And to answer the title question of another – this time Polish – film: this Trojan horse weighs 11 tons!

I’ll Be Back

The closer we got to the end of our trip, the more wonderful experiences I had. All of them made Turkiye etched in my memory as an adventurous place.

This is a country that I would certainly love to return to. What attracts the most is the variety of historical and architectural sites, works of art, cuisine, as well as the great hospitality of the Turkish people. It’s a region where motorcycle travelers are more than welcomed, and so far no European country has made such a positive impression on me as Turkiye.

Let’s end this journey with Turkiye’s most spectacular landscapes.

Read the first two chapters of this adventure:

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We arrived there in the middle of the night, during a huge downpour and thunderstorm. We found a place to stay the night spontaneously, at the last minute, as befits travelers. Mental and physical fatigue was slowly taking its toll. Nonetheless, after finding a place to sleep, we only managed to take a short nap and already had to get up to admire the sunrise.

We got up and took a walk towards the viewpoint. I, as a night owl, had the biggest problem getting up, but the guys convinced me to go. This is one of the advantages of traveling in somebody’s company – you can motivate each other. Alone I might not have wanted to get out of bed so early but in a group, it’s always somehow better.

What we saw was astounding. Still half-asleep, not fully distinguishing between sleep and reality, we admired the balloons soaring over the wavy rocks. It’s one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen.

The brain was already slowly ceasing to function. The line between dream and reality was blurring like never before. Responsible for this was a remarkable fairytale-like view, but so was sleep deprivation. We felt that it was high time to go to bed. After two decent hours of sleep, we were ready for a motorcycle tour of the surrounding attractions and gravel roads.

Without luggage, we explored local gravel roads and off-road areas.

Love Valley and Its Unique Rock Formations

Our first stop that day was the Love Valley. You may guess where the name came from.

These conical geomorphological formations are called fairy chimneys. They were formed by the erosion of less resistant rock (usually tuff), preserving the harder rock – basalt – on top.

Cappadocia is stunning at any time of the year. We managed to reach it before the tourist season started, so we avoided the crowds and spent two days in Göreme, admiring the natural wonder of the region in a low-key atmosphere.

The Biggest Land Art in the World

Land art – also known as Earth art, environmental art, or Earthworks. It’s an art movement that “works” with the environment. Artists utilise materials of the Earth, including the soil, rocks, vegetation, and water found on-site. They also make use of erosion and various atmospheric phenomena.

Andrew Rogers’s created his megalithic work titled “Time and Space” by placing 13 stone structures along a 2.5-kilometer part of the Kardang mountain valley. On Google Arts & Culture you can see a satellite picture of this site. You can see various land artworks, such as a horse. Let us know in the comments whether you found it! Maybe you’ll find also something else?

As an art enthusiast, I’m thrilled by the fact that I had the opportunity to see this masterpiece. Especially since the movement favoring the process of work creation over the end result was an extremely important factor when it comes to modern art development.

Uçhisar – a City with the Rock Castle

In the Cappadocia region, you can admire the rock-cut architecture, such as houses, churches, or even historical, abandoned areas chiseled in volcanic rocks.

You can see the town of Uçhisar from the distance. Its most dominant “building” is a 60-meter castle, carved in a single rock. It stands proudly as the highest point in Cappadocia. The castle is quite different from most other castles you may have seen before. There’s a plethora of bare rock rooms and corridors that don’t hold any antiques.

Red Valley – the Best Place to Admire Sunsets

We finished our day in the Red Valley. This area is a series of many connected lowlands. A stone’s throw from the Red Valley is also the Rose Valley.

We circled around the place, trying to find a road leading to the highest point. Time was running out and we couldn’t decide where to stop. Not because the views were poor but rather because every corner was phenomenal. It was really hard to make up your mind. We were overwhelmed by the number of marvelous vantage points.

Eventually, we rode up to one of the rocks and from there we switched to feet mode, leaving our motorcycles for a while.

Depending on the position of the sun, the rocks turned various shades of red.

We already knew that we’d also spend the next sunrise in the Red Valley.

Sunrise in the Red Valley

It was time to say goodbye to Göreme. We decided to admire hot air balloons taking off and landing for the last time.

Personally, I would recommend spending at least 3-4 days in Cappadocia. However, we were running out of time and we had to move on to the south of Turkiye.

We completed our main goal – reaching Cappadocia. But it wasn’t the end as more adventures awaited us in Turkiye.

If you want to see more photos of the stunning region of Cappadocia, check out this gallery.

Read how this adventure started and how it ended:

Post Motorcycle Touring in Turkey – Cappadocia pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Istanbul and First Impressions

Ancient Byzantium, then Constantinople, and since the establishment of the Republic of Turkiye – Istanbul.

More than 15mln people inhabit this remarkable city that connects two continents. Its most recognizable features are the Bosphorus Bridge and the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque.

We stayed in Istanbul for two nights to have time to see at least part of this remarkable city.

I was definitely most impressed by the mosques and the adhan “chanted” five times a day from the minarets. In Islam, it’s the call to prayer (salah) recited by a muezzin. Today, loudspeakers are widely used, so the adhan can be heard very well anywhere.

TET Turkiye

In contrast to the city and the vastness of people, after two days of sightseeing on foot, we set course for the TET route. My favorite part of the trip – the off-road driving – began.

Initially, the TET route winded between small towns and villages, and as we moved further east, the landscapes became more desolate.

The rich palette of colors and vegetation was pleasing to the eyes. In Turkiye, the number of species of flowers is about 9,000. In comparison, there are slightly more in the whole of Europe, about 11,500 species. The national flower of the country is the tulip and it’s from Turkiye that it was brought to Europe.

The west-central part of the route is beautiful and quite easy. It’s a shame that we didn’t have enough time to drive it all the way to Georgia.

For one of the Pauls, this route was a maiden voyage through the wilderness, as he’s more of an asphalt enthusiast. Kudos to him for controlling his motorcycle in different conditions and with road tires on. I, on the other hand, felt like a fish in water with my favorite Mitas E-07+ tires.

During our trip, part of the TET Turkiye route led through a large section of road just being prepared for asphalting. We met road workers who were very surprised that we knew this route. They themselves said that it leads through a scenic area and that they like to come here to work. They also showed us which way to go next to see the coolest places.

Non-Tourist Landscapes

Whether riding on asphalt or off-road, the views are picturesque and surprise you with something different every now and then.

Turkiye, thanks to its terrain and abundant rainfall throughout the year, has a very rich flora. It’s home to approx. 3,000 species of endemic plants, i.e. plants that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

Moving away from the Black Sea into the country’s interior, we started heading to the second largest lake in Turkiye. Along the way we bypassed the larger towns and cities, exploring the more remote, non-touristy regions.

The 39°C temperature and often no place with shade was an interesting experience. Even the high speed on the motorcycle did not provide a sense of refreshment.

As avid explorers, one Paul and I would leave the other Paul for some time in beautiful places, exploring on our own some nearby mountain peaks or places that required off-road skills.

From the top, the view would have been amazing, but at this altitude, the clouds were still lingering.

My new Tenere 700 has basically just left the Yama-Sklep.pl | Wojciechowicz showroom. We haven’t gotten to know each other well yet, but I’ve already discovered that the T7 allows a lot more off-road than the old XT660Z. I will soon write a detailed post with the comparison and modifications. I just need to do some more kilometers in different conditions.

Discount Code from Yama-Sklep and AdvAnywhere

Yama-Sklep.pl – with AdvAnywhere code, you have a 6% discount from us on purchases of accessories and other products! With a great parts search option, you can easily find any part for any Yamaha motorcycle.

Burj Al Babas Spooky Castles

At the last minute, we added the unfinished Burj Al Babas project to our itinerary. It fascinates some and disgusts others. One thing you must admit is that seeing 732 identical, unfinished buildings, without a living soul around, instills a strange feeling.

Beware of scammers who demand $100 for entry. I recommend reading reviews on Google Maps to find out more

Crossing the Tuz Salt Lake

On the way, we also crossed the Tuz Lake, from which salt is extracted. The lake’s salinity is 33%, higher than the Dead Sea, which has an average salinity level of 28%.

We continued on to Göreme, an idyllic city full of fairytale-like “chimneys”, but I’ll write more about it in the next chapter.

Read the next chapters of this adventure:

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Choosing the Right Tent

Always a Little Bigger

When traveling by motorcycle, the tent you take with you should be half a person bigger than the standard one you’d choose.

If the tent offers enough space for two people, sooner or later we’ll run out of room. If we want to store some motorcycle clothes, helmets, or other luggage, e.g. because of the weather, it’ll turn out that the tent can be cramped.

The rule is simple. If we’re going solo, it’s best to choose a tent that offers a little more space than just for us. We can even choose a two-person tent. If we’re traveling two-up then a three-person tent should be ideal.

In my opinion, the Lone Rider ADV tent’s designers were perfectly aware of that. They designed a two-person tent in such a way that apart from the main compartment, the luggage can be stored in the vestibules. This way, we don’t have to put dirty panniers inside, they are not in (strangers’) view, and are protected against rain.

Storing the panniers in the vestibule has also this advantage that we have access to our equipment without leaving the tent. It’s invaluable in difficult weather conditions.

In my opinion, the tent weight is not that important if you travel by motorcycle. Whether it’s 1kg heavier or lighter, it won’t affect the ride in any way and the difference is too small to influence anything. More important is certainly the construction sturdiness and compactness after folding.

Where to Pitch a Tent?

Before pitching the tent it’s good to look at the slope of the terrain. In case of a slant, we need to pitch the tent in such a way to sleep with our heads up. It seems to be obvious, but when you are tired after all day, such things can be overlooked.

In the Wild or at the Camp?

When I go on a multi-day trip, I want it to be an adventure, so hotels and apartments are a definite last resort. Wild yet legal places are my priority. Two days in the wild, and the third one at a campground to take a hot shower and possibly charge electrical devices if needed is optimal.

Campsites are great places to camp. We can safely leave some of our luggage and go climbing or sightseeing.

Weather

Tenting: the Art of Foreseeing

When traveling, it’s always good to check the weather forecast for the next day in order to have a chance to prepare or even change the place of accommodation in case of bad conditions. There were many times when I had to change my course slightly and ride a few kilometers more to avoid the storm.

There are many applications that show storm forecasts on the map. It’s worth using them.

Sun Exposure

The sun can be our ally or enemy when tenting. It’s worth checking where the sun will rise and using that to your advantage. If it’s mid-summer, I set up my tent in such a way as to stay in the shade as long as possible in the morning.

If it rained all night and the sun is going to come out in the morning, it’s a good idea to set up the tent so that it starts drying with the first rays of the sun. Similarly, it’s worth exposing the tent to the sun in the case of cold days and nights and making sure that the temperature is favorable in the morning.

Harsh Weather Conditions

If it’s going to rain, an extra tarp will be helpful. It’ll protect the tent from direct contact with water and also keep you dry when going out. However, be careful not to let the water flow down the tarp directly onto the tent.

During strong winds, we should remember not to spend the night near trees or other elements that can fall on us.

Clothing and Sleeping Bag

Warm days are not a challenge, but the problem arises in the case of cold nights. Here the matter is not as obvious as it may seem. To survive a cold night you should not wear everything you have.

It’s best to wear clothing made of merino wool. It has very good thermoactive properties and keeps your body warm. Sleeping in a jacket and pants in a sleeping bag can have a negative effect on the temperature because the clothes will partially absorb the heat generated by the body.

A down sleeping bag needs to be shaken out well before use, so the feathers can decompress.

Personally, I like to have wool socks with me because feet and hands are the first body parts to freeze. It’s important that the socks are loose and don’t pinch the feet, as this restricts circulation and works against you.

I always keep my jacket and pants close to my feet, creating an additional barrier against the tent wall. When it’s very cold, I put my motorcycle jacket over my sleeping bag on my feet.

Food

Shortly before going to sleep it’s good to eat something nutritious, to provide yourself with energy to maintain the optimal body temperature just before going to bed. Well, sleeping bag rather.

I always carry freeze-dried emergency food with me. I’m not fond of this type of diet, but it may come in handy sometimes.

To boil water for tea or coffee I use Jetboil, which with an adapter also serves as a burner under a pot or pan.

Campfire

When planning where to set up your camp, it’s a good idea to pay attention to wind direction and make sure the smoke doesn’t fly onto your tent. No one likes to sleep in a smoke pit.

If it’s windless but still cold, after the campfire, warm stones can be moved closer to the tent, or even stacked in the vestibule. They will act as a natural air heater.

Summary

Everyone has to find their own way of tenting. The more nights spent in a tent the more we get to know our preferences. I hope that these few tips will help those who have not yet experienced this type of travel to prepare themselves.

Hammock as an Alternative to a Tent

A hammock can be a good alternative to a tent, if conditions allow it.

Less weight and definitely less bulk are just some of the advantages. However, there are also cons to this solution. If you’d like to know more, let me know in the comments below.

Post Sleeping in a Tent for 30 Days Straight pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

To the South

On the way back, we tried to take alternative detours on gravel and less subsidized roads much more often. This way we could discover the true, non-tourist atmosphere of Norway.

Nevertheless, we think we managed to find a happy medium between city asphalt and wild gravel.

During our north-south “descent” we wanted to spend even more time closer to nature. Therefore, the priority was to find the most interesting places to camp. With a clear conscience, we can admit that this mission was successful.

We slept on beaches, by rivers and waterfalls, in forests, and of course by the fjords. Such moments as Norwegian fiskekaker eaten at sunset over Rosskrepp lake will remain in our memories for a long time.

Arctic Circle Centre

Since it turned out that we still have some time before the return ferry and we don’t have to rush too much, we stopped at the Arctic Circle Centre on E6. This is probably one of the most popular places, so it would be a shame not to see it. The building itself is quite interesting – it looks a bit like a flying saucer that landed somewhere in the middle of the tundra landscape. The 66’ 33” parallel of latitude runs through the building. In front of the center, you will also find a globe sculpture and the original monument from 1937.

The most eye-catching, however, is the wooden monument said to be reminiscent of a giant troll. Inside the center we can enjoy coffee and flavors of Norway and visit a souvenir store, mini-cinema and an exhibition supplemented with information about the place.

Acclimatization

After almost a full month on the road, we had definitely managed to get used to life as motorcycle nomads. Covering several hundred kilometers every day, cooking, and washing ourselves and the dishes in the river gave us more satisfaction than anything else in everyday life.

During such a trip, without all the conveniences usually available at hand, one feels alive. And that they fully manage their own time. The temperature doesn’t play a role, you don’t need a warm, comfortable bed to sleep, and the food doesn’t have to be fancy.

A Bit of Fun in the Field

The aforementioned gravel roads were not only a great opportunity to explore the trails less frequented by tourists, but also… to let off steam. By the way, we had a chance to take additional, interesting photos, which still showed the raw beauty of Norway, but in a slightly more “crazy” version.

Ålesund

Ålesund was recommended to us at the beginning of our trip by a man we met on the road. He described it as “Norwegian Venice” and that was enough for us. On the spot, it turned out that this Art Nouveau gem impresses not only with water channels but also with unusually coherent architecture. Grey roofs seen from the Aksla Hill give a kind of sense of peace and harmony, so ubiquitous in Norway, and so difficult to find in Poland.

Where do such buildings come from? They were built after a fire in 1904 when a wooden trading settlement was completely consumed by fire and the inhabitants lost their homes. Fortunately, thanks to support from various sides, the town was rebuilt and we can now admire the brick buildings in the Art Nouveau style.

Coming back to Aksla Hill, it is only 189 meters high, so it is not very high and you can easily climb the stairs (there are 418 of them). Along the way, we have several viewing platforms, from which we can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. If you don’t have time or are not willing to do some light climbing, you can get to the top by car/motorbike or the Bytoget train. The most spectacular view is of course from the top. We can see the Ålesund panorama, nearby islands, and the peaks of nearby mountains – the Sunnmøre Alps.

Trollstigen

A must-see place, especially during motorcycle trips, is Trollstigen. The road is one of eighteen National Scenic Routes of Norway (Nasjonaleturistveger in Norwegian).

Literally translated as the Troll Ladder – “stigen” means “ladder” in Norwegian – has 11 sharp turns with gradients ranging from 9 to 12%. The vast majority of them require us to change direction by almost 180°. Its most popular section is the one from Åndalsnes to Valldal and it is 56 kilometers long. The entire road from Geiranger to the bottom of Romsdalen is 106 kilometers long.

Trollstigen is called a masterpiece of engineering, and there are reasons for that. The very fact that it was built on a steep mountainside deserves recognition. The fact that construction began almost 100 years ago is even more impressive. Interestingly, each of the eleven curves has its own name, often derived from the name of the foreman responsible for the curve. The road was opened on July 31, 1936, by King Haakon VII, after eight years of construction.

It is worth mentioning that the road goes over an amazing natural stone bridge, located at the 180-meter high Stigfossen waterfall. We certainly won’t forget it for a long time, as this is where we almost lost our drone.

Driving the Troll Road is a thrilling experience. Some sections are cut into the mountains, some are built on stone walls, and the sharp edges of the road reveal the abyss and valley floor. But this is not the only road in this area that deserves our attention. Continuing south on Route 63 we found a beautiful place to stay for the night.

Since there was still a lot of time left before dark, we decided to put up the tent and go for a mountain climb in search of beautiful shots of mountain views. Unexpectedly, it turned out that this is probably our favorite region in Norway.

We slowly climbed to the top, stopping every now and then to admire the views before us.

When the sun began to set we were already close to the summit, so we sped up a bit to take the best seat in this theater of fiery lights. The sunset itself lasted about an hour. Eventually, the sun hid behind the mountains for a while and practically ignored the night, the sunset morphed with the sunrise.

The journey through Norway was marked not only by long kilometers driven during the day but also by hundreds of photographs taken at night. After all, when to sleep when there are so many views around? It’s best not to sleep at all.

What Would the Adventure Be without a Breakdown?

Everything was going perfectly until suddenly, four days before the return ferry to Poland… we got a flat tire.

It was Saturday after 4 p.m. and no one was working in Norway at that time. We started looking for anyone who could help us, and finally, we called the insurance company. Unfortunately, they weren’t very helpful. They did arrange for a tow truck, but it turned out that the nearest workshop it could take us to was 300 meters away, on the other side of the street. Unfortunately, it was already closed and they were supposed to open on Monday.

It was raining harder and harder and we still had 1000 kilometers to go. In four days it wasn’t a problem, but if we didn’t fix the fault right away, we would have to wait until Monday for someone to help with the repair. Then it would be a problem to catch the ferry to Poland.

Unfortunately, the owner of the repair shop, who showed up two hours later, was not eager to help. After all, he was off duty. We only managed to borrow from him a wrench to unscrew the wheel. Kewin set to work and with the help of basic tools started to remove the tire. However, it didn’t look like the operation would be successful without the use of a tire machine.

The weather was getting really bad. We were about to look for emergency accommodation in order not to stay on the street. And suddenly, an elderly man approached us and asked in Polish if we needed any help. We needed it very much! It turned out that the man was another employee of the workshop and seeing compatriots in need he did not hesitate for a moment to give a helping hand. With his assistance, the situation was quickly brought under control.

It turned out that the inner tube was jammed and broke. Fortunately, the tire was whole. A quick glue-up, reconstruction of the motorcycle, putting on the bags, and off we go! All thanks to our guardian angel. It is amazing how sometimes the world can help us by sending such a good soul.

Farewell to Norway in Oslo

We slowly started heading towards Sweden. Since we had some time, we visited Oslo, which was one of the three Norwegian cities where we stayed for longer. The previous ones were Ålesund and Tromsø. Each of them delighted with architecture, whether more traditional or modern.

In Oslo we were definitely most enchanted by the opera house, followed by the food, as we were tempted to visit the Oslo Street Food hall and My Ugly Baby doughnut shop. After a month of cooking on the road, we deserved a decent meal!

The Last Stop – Husqvarna Museum

In the very end, we went to a place that we found by accident on Google maps. We don’t really know how it didn’t make it onto our list of places to visit from the beginning. Husqvarna Museum! We had a chance to admire all kinds of motorcycles that have been built over the years, as well as shotguns and household appliances. There were even sewing machines fished from the depths of the lake! A really interesting place, perfect for the end of a motorcycle adventure.

Finally, the time came for our last ferry crossing. Not in the Viking country anymore, but from Karlskrona to Poland. Now it is time to plan our next trips and discover new places.

We don’t know yet where exactly will take us next time but we already have a lot of interesting destinations in mind!

Post Norway 2021 – Chapter IV pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Senja Island – The First Slowdown and a Moment of Rest

It’s been 11 days since we left. After that time you slowly start to notice what you left behind. A bit like when you eat dinner very quickly and only after a while you feel full. It was only after these few days that we fully understood where we were, what we had seen, and what still lay ahead of us.

It was the first time we camped in one place for more than one night. We unpacked the baggage and met a couple of nice Germans, who were also on the road on their BMW GS. They made some space for us nearby and so we created a mini-camp, from which the next day we went luggage-free on a tour around the island.

You’ll Go Furthest on Foot

We arrived at Segla mountain, which was our climbing goal for the day.

The visual experience of mountain walking in Norway was completely different from that of the Tatra or Beskid Mountains. The paths are wide and give a lot of freedom of movement – we do not feel like we are on a track, but rather like we are on an open sea of rocks.

The beginning of the route was rich in vegetation, and the view of what awaited us above was obscured by a dense fog.

At a certain altitude, we went above the clouds and something amazing appeared to us. It turned out that the whole time we were at the bottom of an ocean…. an ocean of clouds, which flowed freely into the Norwegian Sea creating a spectacular waterfall of clouds.

Mountains always impress with something unique. Such a tranquil, quiet, and pleasant place. You can find such peace only on Norwegian peaks.

Segla has a vertical wall falling straight into the sea. The view from the top is stunning and to some extent stressful. It’s simply breathtaking. More photos from this climb here: Segla Mountain.

The Road to Nordkapp

The higher we were on the map, the more polarized recommendations where to go next we were getting. Those from the north admired the south of the country and advised against Nordkapp, while those from the south often said the opposite. Just like in Poland – people from the mountains love the sea and those from the coast escape to the mountains for their vacations. Yin-yang. Many Norwegians we met on the way advised us against taking the road to Nordkapp. They said the route is boring and not particularly scenic. We have seen similar thoughts on various motorcycle groups, but we always keep our distance from subjective opinions.

The truth is, most of it depends on your attitude. I have often read that someone’s disappointed with Nordkapp, that there is nothing there, that it’s not worth a go, Lofoten’s better, etc. Usually, the voice of disappointment came from those who chose Nordkapp as their main and only destination, they rode 900km a day there for the whole week and only found bad weather there. When the expectations are high, the reality can hurt.

The weather was getting rougher and it was getting harder to ride. Fingers and toes were getting numb, and we still had many kilometers to go. The views, however, were still stunning. The climate in the north is definitely harsher, but it has its charm. We did not go for an easy vacation, we wanted adventure!

The (In)Famous Nordkapp

The 307m high rocky cape is connected to the mainland by an undersea road tunnel. Nordkapp is sometimes mistakenly considered to be the furthest cape in Europe. Knivskjellodden on the same island is 1457m further north. You can see it from the Nordkapp observation deck. However, there is no road leading to it. Since both of these capes are on the island, they don’t really qualify for the title of Europe’s northernmost cape. That title belongs to Nordkinn, which is about 68km east of Nordkapp. Even if we were to take islands into account, the northernmost point in Europe would be Cape Fligely on Rudolf Island.

However, Nordkapp remains the most popular destination due to its location, history, and attraction, among other reasons. It is also an endpoint on the international route E69.

There is a beautiful museum, restaurant, and gift store on site.

After seeing everything we could and having dinner at the restaurant, we slowly started to get going. It was raining, very cloudy, windy, and cold. Fatigue was setting in and we considered the option of retreating to a campsite. We even found a free room in an apartment 12km from Nordkapp, just in case.

On the way to the parking lot, a few times other motorcyclists stopped us for small talk. One of them asked us if we were also staying at the North Cape for the night. He showed us that he had already put up his tent, was going to a cafe, and suggested that we join him.

Daniel, our new motorcycle buddy, came up with the idea that we should sit in the cafe until closing, sleep for two hours, and get up for sunrise. It was supposed to clear up a bit by then and we were hoping for good photographic conditions. Check out Daniel’s photos on his website: www.danielfriedli.com/.

The sky cleared up a bit and while everyone was sleeping in the campers in the parking lot, we managed to quietly roll our motorcycles and take souvenir photos from under the famous globe. A huge thank you to Daniel for the whole evening and for motivating us to live an adventurous life!

Time to Go Back

We’re riding back, or rather we’re changing our direction of travel and starting our Norway tour from the north towards the south. We had a few days left and we intended to make the most of them.

This wasn’t the end of the adventures that awaited us in Norway!

Post Norway 2021 – Chapter III pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

We tried to ride the vast majority of the route in such a way as to pass cities and areas crowded with tourists. On the one hand, we had a lot of time to travel, but on the other, we knew that we would not have enough time for all the attractions we’d like to see. So we decided that our trip would be a kind of reconnaissance. We’ve passed many great national parks that we’d definitely like to visit in the future with a little more time.

Fv17 – The Route of Many Ferries

This road, over six hundred kilometers long, picturesque, and not as popular as the E6, runs through 28 municipalities. Six ferry crossings significantly extend the travel time compared to the parallel E6, but the whole route is much more charming and leads along the coast.

Restaurant on Two Wheels

Norway is quite an expensive European country when it comes to everyday life. Therefore, we limited visits to eateries to one a week. As big fans of rice and pasta, we knew what our meals would look like. For pasta, we had a supply of various sauces, which we brought with us.

For the first few days, the main course was freeze-dried food. We left two packs for a rainy day.

We also had some pasta, bars, and instant soups with us, which gradually disappeared from our luggage.

We bought food at Rema1000 or Kiwi. These are the two most popular retail chains and the prices there are the lowest compared to other shops. Our daily diet consisted of pasta with sauce and chicken, fish, or shrimps.

For our Jetboil we’ve bought dedicated pan support and also a frying pan and a collapsible pot from GSI Outdoors. Together with the folding silicone bowls, our entire kitchen set took up really little space and it was enough to quickly and efficiently prepare the simplest dishes.

You can read our Jetboil review here – Kuchenka Jetboil Zip. Among all available portable stoves, this one is by far the best and gives the most possibilities. In our opinion.

Catching up with the Arctic Circle 66°33’39″N

The Arctic Circle is often associated with a line on the map as high as 66° 33’39″N or 66° 33’39″S, depending on the hemisphere.

The Polar Circle almost exactly marks the boundary between the polar day and polar night, during which the sun does not set or rise for at least 24 hours.

However, in reality, its exact location changes all the time. Currently (since 2015) it is moving away 15m a year to the north! This is because its latitude depends on the Earth’s axial tilt, which fluctuates by more than 2 degrees in 41,000 years.

Despite the fact that the Arctic Circle was running away from us all the time, we managed to catch up with it and even overtake it, entering the Arctic.

Finally, Lofoten

We took the last ferry from Bodø to Lofoten. It was late, dark, and very rainy, and we couldn’t find a place to stay. Only after 2:30 a.m., we reached the camping site where we put up our tent in the rain and went to sleep. Fortunately, we were greeted by the sun in the morning, so we quickly dried all our clothes and set off to explore our dream archipelago in the Norwegian Sea.

We started, of course, with the town in the Moskenes commune with the shortest name in the world – Å. This is also where the picturesque European route E10 begins, which we headed towards the Rørvikstranda beach and from there to the town of Henningsvær.

The goal was fulfilled. When we looked at the map, we realized that we had traveled quite a long way and we were a stone’s throw from Nordkapp. So we set a new goal – to reach the North Cape.

Lofoten may not seem like a large area. This archipelago is 112km long, but it’s packed with so many striking natural wonders that it is worth visiting this region with plenty of spare time. We slowly moved on, having in our head and memory places that one day we’d like to visit again without haste.

Near the town of Henningsvær, a steel fog seemed to cover some areas of its own choosing. The fluidity with which the visible areas were revealed and covered again, gave the impression of a dream, phantasm. Certainly, this magical feeling was accompanied by normal human sleepiness. We pitched the tent on a rock ledge, from where we had a beautiful view of the sea and the lights of a fishing town emerging every so often.

In Lofoten, an unearthly force brings water, mountains and sky together. Everything seems to be closer together than anywhere else. The clouds overlap the rock walls and melt with them in a liquid mirror in the color of the heavens. Everything spins and morphs quietly. It’s great to be in the middle of this mixture and experience the beauty of nature on your own skin.

Time in Lofoten passed so quickly that in a blink of an eye we were in Andenes, where we visited the space center – Spaceship Aurora. There, we’d play the role of real astronauts. Then we went by ferry to Senja Island, which surprised us very positively, and from which we’ll start the next part of our story – Norway 2021 – Chapter III

Let’s end this chapter with a short video compilation from the trip.

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