In this post, I’m putting everything in one place — what I changed, why it makes sense for TET/ACT, and how it works in real life.

If you’re just thinking about a 690 or you already own one and want to build it “ready to go” for adventure — treat this as inspiration and a checklist. I’ll keep it concise and practical.

Why a brand-new bike and where it’s from

I bought a brand-new KTM 690 Enduro R at Wojciechowicz dealership (ktmsklep.pl) because I wanted peace of mind: fewer repairs, more riding. Newer model years handle vibrations better and have improvements that older bikes sometimes lacked. In practice: less risk and more confidence on longer trips. Buying new also means I can break the engine in properly myself — and I know nobody abused it or poured “cooking oil” into it.

If you’re looking for KTM parts and accessories — I have a permanent discount at KTM-Sklep with code Kewin10.

KTM Shop offers a wide selection of original KTM parts and accessories for motorcycles and KTM ATVs, as well as Motorex oils and chemicals.
You’ll find interactive parts diagrams that let you order quickly and easily from your phone or computer.

KTM-sklep.pl

10% off EVERYTHING!*

Promo code: Kewin10

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Discount applies to: KTM parts kits × Original PowerParts × PowerWear*

*Exclusions: WP Performance Systems × Software × Exhaust systems × Special PowerParts kits

Project foundation: Rade Garage (tower + tank + protection)

This is the base of the whole build. On my bike, Rade Garage does the key things: more range, cockpit/navigation, and protection + organization.

Rade Garage 5L under-seat auxiliary fuel tank

An extra 5 liters gives me realistically about +100 km of range. For me it’s the “difference between relaxed and stressed”:

• on long transfers (e.g., riding back from Greece to Poland on the highway) I refuel less often,
• in areas with no fuel stations I have a safety buffer.

A very important detail: the fuel tap.

• If you keep it open — fuel drains evenly and the center of gravity stays lower.
• If you want a “last-resort reserve” — you close it, run the stock tank, then open it and you’ve got the full 5L in reserve.

Install bonus: performance intake and air filter

When you install the tank you also get a performance intake and air filter — improved airflow, and you can feel the engine “breathing easier.” The filter is foam, so it’s straightforward: clean it regularly. I do it often after a week of offroad riding and I keep a few filters in rotation (remove dirty one, install a freshly oiled clean one).

Installation? You can get it done in one evening / one day — more “bolts and patience” than heavy fabrication.

Rade Garage Rally Tower (cockpit, lights, wiring)

Rade Garage K5 Fairing is one of those mods that truly changes the character of the KTM 690: better wind protection, rally ergonomics, and a clean cockpit — without killing the bike’s lightweight feel.

The rally tower has many advantages:

• rally looks (cool, but secondary),
• better wind protection — much better comfort on transfers,
• powerful LED lights and easy low/high beam adjustment.
• The tower is a platform for accessories: you get a phone/tablet/GPS bar; easy access to wiring, fuses, and all electronics “in one place”; cables are hidden — nothing tangles, everything is tidy and serviceable.

I also added a panel with extra USB ports (I drilled the hole in a replaceable part). My tablet is wired so that charging works with ignition: I start the bike and everything powers up automatically.

Detailed component breakdown

• Windscreen — reduces wind resistance and fatigue on transfers while staying out of the way offroad.
• Polycarbonate side panels — flexible side protection from mud and minor impacts while keeping the 690 slim.
• Carbon fiber tower — light and strong central structure for the cockpit that reduces front weight and provides a solid base for devices; plus a lifetime warranty. https://www.radegarage.com/lifetime-guarantee/
• GPS bar + adapter — a stable bar for mounting electronics (GPS/phone/tablet), designed for easy installation and a clean line of sight.
• LED lights (ECE) — powerful, road-legal dual-beam LEDs that offer much better night visibility than the stock headlight.
• Mounts and wiring — complete set of connectors, electrical adapters, and bolts to mount the fairing without drilling or permanent mods.
• Steering damper adapter (Scotts) — dedicated mount so a Scotts damper fits straight into the cockpit without custom brackets.

It’s a complete kit that makes the KTM 690 more comfortable, cleaner, and more offroad-friendly, focused on real devices and aero protection — not just looks.

Rade Garage skid plate with tool storage

This is one of my favorite parts: protection + storage. The Rade Garage Skidplate EVO2 does far more than just “protect the underside” — it’s a heavy-duty skid plate combined with a practical tool box, designed specifically for real offroad use. It protects the engine and undercarriage from rocks, stumps, and impacts, while letting me carry the heaviest and most annoying essentials (tube, tools, emergency kit) low, centralized, and without taking space in my luggage. That improves stability, and I always have the critical stuff within reach — exactly where it makes sense for TET/ACT.

What I carry inside:

• spare tube,
• tire tools,
• folding side-stand foot (when there’s no tree to lean the bike on),
• tape, cordage, straps and “stuff that always comes in handy” that you don’t want inside your bags.

This skid plate also comes with rear brake master cylinder protection.

I even have a slightly crazy idea: one day convert it into a water reservoir (bag + hose). The reason is simple: I don’t like hydration packs on my back — I prefer to keep my back free.

Navigation control: Carpe Iter (Bluetooth)

Carpe Iter is a navigation controller — I operate it with my thumb via a joystick: centering, zoom in/out, moving the map. It lets me control the map while riding, which is insanely useful. I can quickly preview what’s coming next, analyze an alternative route, etc.

I chose the Carpe Iter controller because it’s the narrowest joystick on the market. Thanks to its compact shape, I still have easy access to the turn signals.

I wired power through a switch on the tower, so I can keep the controller on even when the bike is off (e.g., during a stop).

Carpe Iter is the missing link between “classic navigation” and real offroad riding — a system that lets me control maps and tracks without touching the screen, in gloves, on bumps, and in the rain. The joystick and buttons are intuitive and responsive, and it eliminates fiddling with a tablet when I should be watching the trail. Combined with the app, I get full control over GPX tracks, map centering, zoom — without taking my hands off the bars.

Peak Design wireless charging

There are many phone mounts on the market — I’d say I’ve tried half of them: RAM Mounts, Quad Lock, and finally the most refined and genuinely user-friendly system: Peak Design.

The Peak Design mechanism is the heart of the whole system and the main reason I use it: SlimLink™ combines ultra-strong magnets with a mechanical lock, so the phone “snaps” into place and is physically secured — it won’t detach on potholes, washboard, or sand.

It’s fast and intuitive: you mount and remove the phone one-handed, without looking, even with gloves. Release is done with a single tactile button. The vibration isolator is also key — it filters high-frequency vibration that can damage camera stabilization, while staying rigid enough to use the screen normally when stopped. Everything feels precise, with no play or “rubberiness,” which is rare: maximum security plus very fast access.

The lock/unlock mechanism is in a different league. With Peak Design you can release the phone with one finger from either side. I talk a bit more about it in this video:

Pro Grip 786 ROAD RALLY (foam grips)

Pro Grip 786 Road Rally are rally-style foam grips designed for long distances and offroad riding. In practice they significantly reduce vibration and hand fatigue thanks to the soft, sponge-like material that absorbs vibration and provides a secure, non-slip grip even in wet conditions. The foam also reduces the risk of hotspots and blisters on longer rides, which translates to comfort and control all day.

Foam Pro Grips deliver:

• noticeably better vibration damping,
• comfort and a pleasant feel,
• on my bike: no glue, pressed on and safety-wired so they don’t rotate.

The biggest advantage is simple: I stopped getting pressure marks on longer trips. Foam grips don’t last forever — you’ll probably replace them every couple of seasons — but they’re cheap and easy to install.

But what about heated grips?
I’m skipping heated grips for one reason: they’re noticeably thicker, which reduces grip security. Even though I have long fingers, thick grips make it harder to hold the bars properly offroad.
And in cold weather? I always carry cheap ski gloves — they work отлично even on highway transfers around zero degrees.

Dope Mirrors – an off-road compromise that works

Dope Mirrors are, for me, a well-thought-out compromise between off-road and normal riding — they’re solid and flexible enough to fold away offroad and survive a crash without stress, while still offering a large field of view that you actually use on asphalt and long transfers.

The biggest advantage is the visibility. They’re big and show far more than the small round Vicma mirrors I used before. And compared to the stock ones — no contest.

Off-road benefits:

• you can fold/lock them for off-road,
• the arm is flexible enough to be forgiving in a crash,
• in the newest version the arm is metal (lower risk of damage).

The Dope Mirrors design uses an arm on two ball joints, so on a big single-cylinder, vibration and aggressive riding will eventually loosen the mirror position a bit. Tightening the screw properly gives you hours of riding without adjustment, but you should expect occasional tweaks. It’s not a big deal — especially because when pushing through bushes and branches, the mirrors can fold instead of catching and wrenching the bars.

Folding or even removing the mirrors completely changes the steering feel — also a great advantage if you plan to ride a track or a rally.

Scotts steering damper – mandatory

This isn’t a “gadget” — it’s an accessory that truly takes load off your hands and forearms, damps sudden bar reactions over bumps, landings, and traction changes, and makes a massive difference in stability both on fast gravel and in technical terrain. It reduces hits and vibration transferred to the wrists, which means less fatigue on long days, and less “bar slap” when the front wheel finds mixed grip — especially where the stock setup would be twitchy. In practice it also improves confidence in turns and on faster dirt sections because the bike is easier to manage without fighting the front end.

If you ride travel enduro/ADV or plan long distances mixing asphalt and offroad, I treat a Scotts damper as a must-have for control, comfort, and safety.

For me, Scotts on the 690 is a “must have”:

• reduces load on hands and arms,
• stabilizes the bike,
• protects against hits and front wheel deflections.

Also: if you have the Rade Garage tank, you get the required parts for the Scotts install — less DIY and fewer extra costs.

You can also get this damper on ktmsklep.pl (don’t forget my discount code Kewin10!):

I talked a bit more about this steering damper in a video:

I also wrote a review and proper setup guide here:

Tools: Motohansa Pro Compact 38 PC Tool Kit

What I like about the KTM is that once you remove the seat and side panel you have quick access to tools. I replaced the stock kit with a HansaMoto set — it has everything you actually need to work on the bike on the road.

Motohansa Pro Compact 38 PC Tool Kit (MTT0001-38B) is a compact motorcycle tool kit designed for offroad riding and travel, combining full service functionality with minimal weight and size.

Yakk crash bars and accessories – radiator protection and smart minimalism

Some say the 690 doesn’t need crash bars. I prefer to protect the radiator and vulnerable areas in a fall. Plus, Yakk EXP crash bars for KTM 690 can also serve as mounting points for small accessories or light luggage.

Yakk also offers a fuel filler neck riser with cap, which not only removes the need to unlock the tank with a key, but — more importantly — the design prevents dirt from collecting right at the seal like in the stock solution.

Another accessory I can recommend is the side stand enlarger. Offroad, it’s a must.

Yakk EXP has a huge range of useful solutions and it’s impossible to mention them all here, so check yakkexp.com for everything you need for the KTM 690 Enduro R — and other bikes too.

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Yakk EXP is not a motorcycle brand — it’s freedom, adventure, and trust in your gear, built by durable accessories made in a Polish workshop and a community of riders ready for the toughest routes; from crash bars and skid plates, through stands and lifts, to waterproof bags — everything so you and your bike are always ready for the next adventure.

Seat Concepts seat – a real difference over distance

I rode the stock seat for a bit and for me it didn’t work — two hours and the fun was over. Seat Concepts (standard height, not raised) solved long-transfer comfort without hurting control offroad. If I were buying today, I’d probably choose the extra grip version.

The Seat Concepts seat on the KTM 690 Enduro R is so comfortable that you can ride for days and barely think about standing up — or worse, stopping for a break.

Expensive, but worth it. No point going halfway.

SAE charging straight from the battery + voltmeter

I have an SAE lead connected directly to the battery with an adapter that shows voltage. The goal:

• I can plug in even with the ignition off,
• on the road I charge a power bank in my tank bag, and in the evening I charge everything else from the power bank.

Simple, but extremely practical for long travel.

Carbon clutch cover guard

The cover gets scratched quickly from your boot, so it’s worth installing a guard as early as possible.

It’s also worth removing and cleaning it occasionally, because dirt can get underneath and act like sandpaper. And be careful with torque — overtightening can damage the threads in the engine cover.

KTM PowerParts Rally footpegs

KTM PowerParts Rally footpegs are wider, longer, and more offroad-focused than the stock pegs — and they make a real difference where control and foot stability matter.

They’re wider and longer, so standing is more stable. Practical tip: with my Kewin10 code on ktmsklep.pl they often end up cheaper than alternatives.

TwinPegs – “weird”, but brilliant

This is an unusual solution: an additional peg creates a large platform for your entire boot. The effect:

• you can stand for a long time and your legs actually rest,
• more stability in sand and rough terrain,
• for my riding style (TET/ACT, mix of hard and easier sections) — it’s perfect.

It’s not a hard enduro solution where you work the heel and absorb aggressively, but for travel enduro/ADV it works exceptionally well.

TwinPegs™

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TwinPegs™ add a second footpeg behind the stock one, improving weight distribution and stability during long offroad rides. They help reduce fatigue, increase control, and improve ergonomics. Ideal for offroad riders who push boundaries.

You can read more about this innovative idea in a separate post:

Perun Moto strap panel/buckle

Perun Moto strap panel/buckle is a practical part that links footpegs, luggage system, and stable load anchoring without adding unnecessary weight.

I kept it even with TwinPegs because Perun’s profile is bent outward — the straps don’t press on the plastics/tank and they don’t route toward hot parts. I’ve seen “flat” alternatives that end up pushing into plastics and causing issues — I don’t recommend them. Perun Moto is designed extremely well.

Perun Moto central luggage rack plate

Perun Moto Luggage Rack SD is a refined luggage base built without compromises: a 6 mm plate and 5 mm support from AlMg3 aluminum, a triangular structure that damps vibrations, smooth strap-friendly edges, and 22 tie-down points for soft luggage. It works with Kriega OS, Mosko Reckless, Rotopax (without removing the rack), and various pannier frames — and it can even replace grab handles for lifting the bike. It weighs only 1.3 kg, uses proper 10.9 hardware, and has a durable powder coat — light, quiet offroad, and simply works on TET/ACT without destroying bags.

For me it’s one of the few racks made the way they should be:

• compatibility with Kriega OS-Base and other top systems,
• a sensible profile and weight,
• excellent finishing: edges are smooth, so they don’t cut straps or bags.

This is critical, because “laser cut + paint and done” racks can slice luggage in real use. I’ve been there — if you can’t afford buying new bags every season, Perun Moto is the only correct solution.

The profile is perfectly matched to the KTM 690 Enduro R tail. It also has two extra rubber bumpers that support the rear when luggage moves.

Fuel dongle PP-02

Fuel Dongle PP-02 is a sensible upgrade for Euro 5 bikes (KTM 690, Husqvarna 701, GASGAS ES700) that fixes an overly lean mixture without touching the ECU. It eliminates low-RPM surging, noticeably improves throttle response in the low and mid range, and also reduces engine and exhaust temperatures. Correcting AFR to an optimal 13.8 makes the bike smoother, calmer, and more predictable — especially in slow offroad and technical sections. Installation is plug & play, no modifications — install and ride, and you feel it from the first kilometers.

Fuel Dongle PP-02 is worth it because it solves real Euro 5 issues without side effects: it doesn’t increase fuel consumption, doesn’t trigger ECU errors, and works with both the stock exhaust and a de-cat setup.

It’s a small module that “tricks” the ECU to add a bit more fuel at low RPM. The effect:

• less bogging and less jerking down low,
• smoother riding in difficult terrain.

Fuel consumption may increase slightly (around 0.2–0.3 L/100 km), but for me the comfort and control are worth it. It’s a clear trade-off: less eco, more usability. To amplify slow technical riding even more, I’m also considering a larger rear sprocket.

How it works

On Euro 5 bikes the stock ECU targets AFR 14.7 at low RPM and small throttle openings, which in practice means higher temperatures, surging, and a nervous throttle response. Fuel Dongle PP-02 corrects the signal and brings the mixture down to an optimal AFR ~13.8, so the engine runs cooler, smoother, and more stable, and throttle response in the low and mid range improves clearly. The difference is immediate — especially in slow offroad, traffic, and technical sections where control matters more than emissions targets.

Fork socks – cheap insurance after a leak

I learned this “after the fact.” If you ride mud and grime, dirt can get under the seals and cause leaks. Fork socks for a few bucks are simple protection worth having.

Kriega OS (OS-18 / OS-12 / OS-6) – modular luggage

Kriega OS (OS-18 / OS-12 / OS-6) is modular luggage that I adapt to the route — not the other way around. I choose small, medium, or larger bags depending on distance and terrain. The system is tough, 100% waterproof, and stable offroad. Thanks to modularity, I can ride ultra-light or add capacity without changing the whole setup. The bags sit low and close to the bike, don’t flop around offroad, and don’t interfere when standing. It’s pure functionality for TET and ACT: zero compromises, fast packing, and full control over how much I actually carry.

It works on the KTM and other bikes too. I’ll make a separate piece about packing and configurations because it’s a deep topic.

Barkbusters – proven, so they stay

A classic that just works. On the 690 I had to improvise a bit with the mounts (swap sides / one “upside down”) because I couldn’t find a perfectly dedicated kit and I wanted to avoid interference with the clutch and brake.

Barkbusters saved me many times from snapping a lever on my T7. On the KTM I haven’t had the “chance” to test them yet — but the trust factor is proven by one thing: I don’t carry spare levers.

Wings exhaust – on the 690 it’s not a “mod”, it’s a necessity

On the KTM 690 you shouldn’t keep the stock exhaust because it’s heavy, bulky, and — most importantly — it gets so hot it can melt the stock plastics and luggage. I’ve seen it with my own eyes.

A Wings exhaust on the KTM 690 is a mandatory upgrade, not an option — lighter, cooler, and far more sensible than the stock can. The overheating issue for plastics and luggage is gone, you drop weight high at the rear, and the engine feels smoother with a deeper, nicer sound without being obnoxious. With the longer dB killer it stays civilized, yet you can tell the bike breathes more freely. It improves ergonomics, luggage safety, and riding comfort — without turning the 690 into a loud gimmick.

Wings gives you:

• a few kilos less,
• better sound (stock 690 sounds like a scooter to me),
• real temperature improvements.

It’s also worth getting the longer tip / bigger dB killer — it still sounds good but it’s quieter. This matters: you don’t terrorize forests, you don’t annoy people, and you protect your own hearing. I also run a heat shield (Acerbis) “just in case,” but with Kriega and correct spacing there’s plenty of clearance — nothing melts.

Tires: Mitas Enduro Trail Rally Pro

This is the question I get most often: which tires for the KTM 690 Enduro R? I ride on Mitas — previously known as E12/E13; now it’s merged and called Enduro Trail Rally Pro.

I run the Super Light version for tubes only, which is fine for me because I always ride with tubes (for my riding style).

There are also tubeless variants and the Dakar version (stiffer). I wrote a bit more about tires in another post:

What’s next?

The foundation of my adventure build is solid, but it’s definitely not the end. I still plan to do mapping, change the license plate mount, and I will definitely swap the rear spring for a stiffer one calculated specifically for my weight with luggage.

Post KTM 690 Enduro R – Complete Adventure Build pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

A motorcycle that balances between the world of enduro and ADV – the KTM 690 Enduro R has taken me across hundreds of kilometers of TET routes, through mountains, sand, and mud. After 15,000 km I can say one thing – this is not a machine for everyone, but if you know what you are looking for, it can take you where no other motorcycle will be able to.

Why did I choose the KTM 690 Enduro R?

After tearing a ligament in my knee, I had to switch to something lighter than my Yamaha Tenere 700. The T7 stays with me – it is a wonderful motorcycle for long trips – but in heavy terrain, its weight used to wear me down. I wanted a motorcycle that would let me ride with full confidence, not with the feeling that I was fighting for my life on technical sections.

Friends let me ride the 690 as well as a Husqvarna. I tested a few other motorcycles, but it was the KTM that gave me a sense of stability and control. The Husky tempted visually, but I felt that the KTM’s geometry suited me better. Even though both motorcycles are based on the same components, for some reason the KTM feels more agile to me, as if the steering control were smoother. It is probably a combination of several small factors, but the final impression can be different. The choice was simple – the 690 became my new expedition base.

First riding impressions

The LC4 engine is a thumper with character. Powerful, aggressive, yet surprisingly flexible. On the road it gives a feeling of full control – you can ride it calmly or open it up and feel that it really has a lot to offer.

The 690 immediately inspires confidence – it handles lightly, is agile, and in terrain you can feel a huge difference compared to large adventure bikes. Every kilometer reinforced my conviction that this was exactly the machine I needed.

Impressions in different conditions

On rocky trails

In Romania or Bosnia, the KTM showed its class. Rocks, sharp climbs – the 690 behaves predictably, and the suspension absorbs irregularities well. This season I completed some of the most difficult off-road sections I have faced so far and despite that, over 15k km my KTM has not gone down even once. This is evidence that the KTM 690 Enduro R offers a huge advantage over heavier ADV-class motorcycles. It is also proof that this design allows for excellent control, and low weight works to your advantage at every moment of the ride.

In deep sand

Sand verifies every motorcycle. The 690 handles it very well – the single-cylinder power pulls you out of trouble, and the lower weight allows better control of the riding line. However, you need to know how to use it – sand does not forgive mistakes, and the KTM will not ride for you, but it will allow you not to fight but to enjoy riding in the sand. And this is a type of fun I had never experienced before on any ADV motorcycle!

On my KTM I ride almost always sitting down – even in sand! For me, unthinkable on a big ADV. The low weight and steering damper changed my approach to off-road riding. More riding seated = less fatigue and longer routes.

In mud

Mud is always a fight. With good tires, the KTM goes confidently, but long, slippery climbs will still be a challenge. The lightweight construction gives an advantage, however – it is easier to maneuver, react faster, and you lose less energy when something goes wrong.

On grass and meadows

On wet grass or meadows, the KTM handles stably. The frame and ergonomics provide a sense of control, and the lightness means you do not have to wrestle with the motorcycle. In such conditions, confidence in handling is key – and the 690 delivers it.

On asphalt

The 690 is not a touring bike. On the highway, vibrations appear that can be annoying, but only if we have recently been riding a twin-cylinder motorcycle. The KTM 690 Enduro R is equipped with a balance shaft that effectively reduces vibrations. They are much milder than on competing single-cylinder bikes.

Rides of several hundred kilometers are no problem for this motorcycle, provided that the seat is replaced. I will describe this in more detail in the post about modifications and accessories, but in short – Seat Concepts – no gel modifications, knock-offs, or overlays.

Tires and suspension

The stock Mitas Enduro Trail should be replaced immediately with a more aggressive tread. The KTM 690 Enduro R must run knobby tires. Dual-sport tires often work for me on heavier ADV bikes, but with the power and weight of the 690, dual-sport tires are not grippy enough. In my opinion, the best knobby construction is offered by the Mitas Enduro Trail XT+. This Dakar-proven combo is second to none.

The stock WP suspension is solid, but it needs to be set up for the rider. In stock form, it was too soft under load. After adjusting the clickers, the motorcycle became predictable and even more confident in handling.

What would I change in the KTM 690?

The 690 in stock form is a great enduro, but if you want to do long-distance expeditions, modifications are necessary. But I will write about that in detail in the next post.

Reliability and servicing

The 690 has a reputation as a maintenance-demanding motorcycle – and there is some truth to it. This is not a Japanese bike that you service “from time to time.” KTM requires regular maintenance. After 15,000 km, I have not had any serious failures – the key is to stick to service intervals and not to save on servicing. Then the 690 repays you with reliability.

Availability and parts prices

KTM is not cheap – both to buy and to run. Parts and accessories can be more expensive than those from Japanese competitors. But in return, you get enormous aftermarket support. You can build a motorcycle perfectly tailored to you. Flexibility and personalization are the real strengths of the 690.

I bought my KTM 690 Enduro R at the Wojciechowicz dealership – https://ktmsklep.pl/

And on this occasion, I have for you:

10% discount on parts and accessories at ktmsklep.pl

The 10% discount code at ktm-sklep.pl applies to the following categories: KTM® Parts Finder × KTM Parts Kits × Original PowerParts × PowerWear Exclusions: WP Performance Systems × Software × Exhaust Systems × Special PowerParts Kits

Link to the discount at ktmsklep.pl

KTM Shop parts finder

Personally, whenever I need to buy something for my KTM, I use the parts finder at KTM Shop. You can select your motorcycle and find parts using interactive diagrams. And best of all, you can add products directly to the cart!

Summary – Who is the KTM 690 for?

The KTM 690 Enduro R is a machine whose full potential will only be used by a conscious rider who understands the compromises they must accept. This machine gives a kind of freedom that is hard to find elsewhere.

For me, the 690 became the perfect exploration tool – light, powerful, and highly moddable. It is a bridge between the world of enduro and ADV. If your goal is TET routes, mountains, and wild trails, and you treat asphalt only as a transfer, the KTM 690 Enduro R may be the best choice currently available on the market.

Post KTM 690 Enduro R – review pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

It turned out to be simply the limitations of my body – standing on the pegs all day is a huge effort for the leg muscles. But what if there was a gadget that could relieve the legs and extend riding time in comfort? That’s how I found TwinPegs. The manufacturer promises that installation takes just 10 minutes, with the result being better stability and less fatigue during off-road riding. Sounds too good to be true? I was skeptical too – but decided to try TwinPegs myself. After 10,000 km of testing, I can say one thing: it works!

What are TwinPegs?

TwinPegs are additional footpegs mounted just behind the stock pegs. Simply put, you bolt special brackets with a second set of pegs at heel level. The original pegs stay in place, while TwinPegs add extra support points for your feet, creating a platform under the whole foot. This way, when standing, you can support both the front part of the foot (toes/ball) and the heel – almost like standing flat on solid ground.

What does this give you? Above all, much better weight distribution. With standard pegs, all the weight is on the ball of the foot, heavily loading calves and ankles. With TwinPegs, the load also shifts to the heels, relieving calves, knees, and ankles, while stronger thigh muscles – and even the skeleton when legs are straighter – take more of the work. In practice, it feels like standing on solid ground instead of balancing on your toes. Less muscle shaking, more stability.

It’s worth adding that TwinPegs are made of aircraft-grade aluminum and equipped with folding springs – they work like OEM pegs, folding back when hitting obstacles or in a crash. The springs are slightly softer than the stock ones, so when hitting rocks or during a fall, the rear pegs just fold up instead of bending or breaking. The manufacturer (a small Norwegian company) is confident enough to offer a lifetime warranty against breaking. The quality is obvious in your hands – this is no cheap plastic gadget, but a well-engineered motorcycle upgrade.

Installation and compatibility

Does it really take only 10 minutes to install? In my case – yes, it was that quick. The TwinPegs kit for the KTM 690 Enduro R includes two brackets bolted to the frame (using OEM mounting points – no drilling or mods) and two heel pegs. All bolts and parts are included; the instructions are simple. With just an Allen key, within 15 minutes, the bike was ready to ride.

If you use aftermarket accessories, check compatibility. On my KTM, I run Perun Moto side racks and the Kriega OS-Base luggage system. Luckily, TwinPegs thought of this – the kit included a spacer adapter for Perun racks, so everything fit perfectly with no interference. Straps can even be routed directly through the TwinPegs structure, which is handy as an extra mounting point.

I’ve heard that on some bikes, TwinPegs may conflict with center stands or other parts mounted near the pegs. On the 690, this isn’t an issue since there’s no stock center stand. It’s always worth checking the manufacturer’s website or contacting them directly – they respond quickly and help with compatibility questions.

Also, the weight of the kit is negligible. Around 1.2 kg mounted low on the frame – honestl,y I didn’t feel any difference. No loss of clearance, no interference – they blend discreetly into the bike’s outline.

First ride impressions

I’ll admit, at first, I looked at TwinPegs as just a curiosity. Two sets of pegs instead of one – can it really make a difference? The first kilometers showed that it feels different. The bike handles differently, the standing position changes – suddenly I could rest my feet wider, more stable. I felt more secure standing, though I had to adapt my body balance a little.

The adaptation was quick. After around 100 km in the dirt, I stopped thinking about the extra pegs – it felt natural. Importantly, they don’t interfere while sitting – when sitting, my heels are above the extra pegs, and I never hit them switching between sitting and standing or putting a foot down.

I’d emphasize that it’s best to already have some experience riding standing on stock pegs before fitting TwinPegs. It’s not a requirement – beginners can use them too – but with experience, you truly appreciate the difference. If you know how to balance on regular pegs, you immediately feel how much easier it is to stay stable. If you later ride a bike without TwinPegs, you won’t “unlearn” standing technique – TwinPegs add skills without removing existing ones.

TwinPegs in practice – a true off-road “game changer”

So what does this mean in practice? After the first serious tests, I realized TwinPegs are not just a gimmick but a true off-road game changer. Here’s what I found over 10,000 km:

Less fatigue

The most noticeable effect is far less leg fatigue. Before, after several days of hard terrain, my calves were burning. With TwinPegs, it’s different – I can ride day after day in tough terrain and my legs don’t give up so quickly. I felt it especially on long marathons, like the mountain stages in Bosnia on the TET, where after a week of hours-long sections – often standing – I still had the strength to stand firmly on the pegs. Before TwinPegs, day six or seven meant fighting exhaustion. Now I extended that limit by several more days.

More stability and control

With heel support, I feel more stable on the bike than ever. Balancing is easier – I can react faster to rear wheel slides or sudden obstacles, standing solidly like on a foundation. On rocky climbs in Romania (ACT,) I noticed I can lean more forward or backward without losing foot grip. The whole foot “sticks” to the bike, making weight shifts easier. In practice, it means better steering control and less chance of feet slipping on bumps or roots.

More effective in sand and mud

If you ride sand, you know how important it is to weigh the rear wheel. Usually, we instinctively push our feet back, drop our heels, so the bike “sits” down and gains traction. With TwinPegs, you do it quicker and more securely. Just lean slightly back and your heels instantly find support – you can push down the rear without balancing on toes. The bike dives less at the front, and I stay balanced when accelerating on loose ground. Same in mud – pressing with heels makes it easier to dig in the rear wheel. I also stopped over-dropping my heels (a bad habit that risks ankle injury on impacts). TwinPegs protect my ankles indirectly by limiting uncontrolled heel drop.

Better body position

Surprisingly, TwinPegs forced me into a more correct riding posture – leaning forward. With heel support, I no longer drop heels too far, so my body shifts forward over the bars. As a result, I feel more “locked in”, gripping the tank with knees, arms less tired since they don’t hold all the body weight. This active stance gives better control, especially when riding fast over rough terrain – I can attack bumps knowing I’m stable.

No negative impact on technique

I worried TwinPegs might sometimes get in the way. For example, in sharp off-road turns at low speed, when sticking a leg out – would the extra peg catch my boot? Or make it harder to put a foot down quickly? I can confirm: it never happened. When I stick my leg out, it goes forward/sideways, not backwards, so the heel pegs stay clear. In tight switchbacks, the 690 behaves normally – I can dab with no issue. Even on steep downhills, sitting low, TwinPegs never interfered.

Summary of riding impressions

Off-road riding became easier and more enjoyable. Really. This isn’t a placebo or “expensive gadget, so it must work”. With TwinPegs, you feel the difference exactly where legs usually take the biggest hit. I can ride all day in tough terrain, and in the evening, I don’t feel like my legs are filled with concrete. The next morning, I get up and can jump back on the bike without sore muscles.

Drawbacks and notes

It’s worth asking if TwinPegs have downsides, since so far I’ve praised them. Honestly? After 10,000 km, I found no serious flaws. Just a few points to note:

• Price: TwinPegs aren’t cheap – around 3160 NOK (~1300–1400 PLN / €120–130) per set. Add shipping from Norway and possible import fees. I received mine smoothly with no customs issues. Is it worth it? If you only ride light trails occasionally, probably not. But for someone riding weeks of off-road standing (like me on expeditions), TwinPegs are worth the money. Comfort and safety are a real gain. I managed to arrange a 5% discount for my readers. It’s not much, but TwinPegs rarely offers discounts, so you won’t find a better deal than with code advanywhere.
• Adaptation: As mentioned, you need time to adapt. The first kilometers feel odd – like switching to a different bike. Don’t get discouraged. After a few dozen kilometers, it feels natural. For some, the downside may be changing foot placement habits. But in my view, it changes for the better – toward correct technique.
• Not universal between bikes: TwinPegs are bike-specific kits. If you ride multiple bikes, you can’t just swap them between machines. You’d need a kit for each model. Not a problem for me – most of my heavy off-road is on the 690 – but worth knowing. If you change bikes, your old TwinPegs might not fit, and you’ll need a new kit (though I think used TwinPegs would resell easily; demand is high).

Again, I found no technical or safety issues. Nothing loosened (I used Loctite on bolts just in case). No negative impact on handling – on the contrary, all positives. The only real downsides are price and model-specific design.

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Conclusion

TwinPegs are an ergonomic innovation that truly improves comfort and control in off-road riding. For me they deliver 100% – thanks to the extra pegs, I can ride longer without leg pain and keep better control in tough terrain. After 10,000 km of rocky climbs, mud, and sand, I can’t imagine going back to stock pegs. TwinPegs became an integral part of my KTM 690 and one of the best upgrades I’ve ever made.

Are TwinPegs for everyone? If you ride adventure/off-road and spend long hours standing – absolutely yes, you should try them. It’s like riding long-travel suspension once – after that, stock feels limiting. Same here – once you feel the stability, regular pegs seem “not enough”. If someone only rides occasional gravel, maybe they won’t feel the difference and might not justify the cost. But for off-road enthusiasts, TwinPegs are a game changer that lets you ride longer, safer, and with more fun.

I highly recommend them. Not a cheap mod, but worth every cent if you take off-road seriously. If I ever change bikes, TwinPegs will be one of the first things I add – I’ve gotten so used to them and value their effect that much.

At the end of the day, it’s about enjoying the ride without being limited by pain or fatigue. TwinPegs help me do just that – making the phrase “ride longer, ride further” very real. If you get a chance, try them – you might discover a whole new level of comfort off-road. 🚵‍♂️💨

Post TwinPegs – review pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

The polar night and extreme Arctic climate mean that only a few species of animals have been able to adapt to these harsh conditions.

Temperatures reaching –40 °C—the very greeting the archipelago gave me—inspired me to take on a photographic challenge in extreme conditions. To make it even more difficult, I chose the polar night. As most know, night photography is inherently time-consuming and demanding.

With a torn ligament in my right knee, I set off to conquer glaciers, moraines, and mountains, searching for the beauty of raw landscapes hidden in complete darkness!

The Svalbard Archipelago

Svalbard is an archipelago under Norwegian sovereignty but with a unique international status. According to the Svalbard Treaty of 1920, citizens of all signatory countries can settle here and use its resources, making it a demilitarized zone and a center for international scientific research.

Longyearbyen

I talk about the history of the town, interesting facts, and other details in my YouTube video – feel free to check it out:

Svalbard is home to numerous glaciers and fjords that shape dramatic landscapes. These formations not only impress visually but also play an important role as indicators of climate change.

Dog sledding through moraines and glaciers

The polar night is the low tourist season. Many agencies are not operational during this time, not only because of the lack of tourists but also due to the extreme weather conditions. Even with the best intentions to face them, it often ends in frostbite or worse.

On the first day of my visit, the snowstorm and wind were so strong that all possible excursions outside the city were canceled. The next day was similar, but the weather improved enough that one of the companies agreed to venture into the Adventdalen valley.

The terrain we traveled through was made up of moraines pushed forward by glaciers.

Moraines are accumulations of rock material and sediments left by retreating glaciers – evidence of their historical movements in Svalbard. They are intensely studied by geologists to better understand the dynamics of glaciers and past climates.

We were supposed to visit an ice cave, though in reality, it’s not a cave but tunnels formed in the summer by meltwater. Beneath our feet was a frozen stream of meltwater. It was slippery, and in many sections, we had to move on our knees.

In the dog sledding video, I share amazing scientific facts about the cave:

Snowmobiles through an ice storm

Another way to explore the icy world is on a snowmobile expedition. Together with a guide and two women (probably from Finland), we set off to discover the remote corners of Svalbard. After a quick briefing and riding training, we left behind the -36°C temperature to experience an even lower wind chill in the snowstorm.

Snowmobiles are one of the main means of transport in Svalbard, especially outside of Longyearbyen. In winter, when the roads are buried in snow, they become indispensable. They are not only an everyday mode of transportation but also the key to exploring the extraordinary Arctic landscapes.

The further you get from civilization, the greater the chances of encountering a polar bear. The adrenaline from riding the snowmobile mixes with an extra thrill – greater than the risk of an ordinary crash.

Over more than 100 km of riding, we experienced a full range of Arctic conditions – from snowstorms where visibility dropped to zero, to clear skies with the northern lights subtly dancing above.

You can see the entire snowmobile experience along with many geographical and geological facts in my YouTube video:

Global Seed Vault

I won’t hide it – this was my little photographic cherry on top. An incredible place, visually unique, and rarely seen with your own eyes.

The Global Seed Vault – hidden in a tunnel carved into the permafrost on the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, on the island of Spitsbergen. It was created to safely store seeds of edible plants from around the world. The building operates without a permanent staff, and its harsh Arctic environment provides natural preservation conditions. It is one of the most important places in the world in terms of biodiversity protection and securing the future of agriculture in the face of climate change and global crises.

I talk about what this seed bank is, why it was created, and how it works on YouTube:

Arctic hiking

To truly experience the Arctic world, you need to hike through the mountains. Unfortunately, during my stay in Svalbard, the longest available expeditions were day trips. I dreamed of a multi-day trek across this land, but this time, I had to settle for two eight-hour hikes.

One of the expeditions ended with the exploration of ice tunnels. The path to them was dangerous – only the guide knew the way. Why? The route led through numerous, several-meter-deep crevasses covered by a thin layer of ice. It’s easy to guess how these tunnels were discovered…

The mountains in Svalbard have a unique shape. Just a few thousand years ago, the region was covered by a thick layer of ice. As the glaciers melted, water sculpted the peaks, creating unique, stepped formations. This is a trace of the Ice Age – a journey through time visible at every step. Climbing these mountains is not only a challenge but also a geology lesson and a testament to the power of nature, which continuously shapes our planet.

In search of the Northern Lights

I didn’t manage to take a firearms course to rent one and venture out of the city alone, but tourist agencies came to the rescue. Thanks to them, you can reach convenient observation spots near Longyearbyen.

Svalbard is located a bit too far geographically. The Northern Lights appear here often, but they are not as intense as in northern Norway.

I monitored the forecasts and conditions daily through the app and stayed in contact with the carrier. When the day of increased activity finally arrived, we immediately set off on the hunt.

In conclusion

The photographic challenge I set for myself turned out to be pure pleasure. Although the frost caused instant pain and my hand stiffened within moments, I spent many hours taking night shots.

Night landscapes have a unique plasticity that can’t be achieved in any other way. In terms of light – or rather, its absence – the polar night in Svalbard was perfect. I’m rarely fully satisfied with my photos, but a few of the ones I took are truly special to me.

The real challenge, however, was shooting daily vlogs, which I invite you to watch. Filming in complete darkness and extreme cold is an achievement I’m proud of.

Post Svalbard – The Arctic expedition pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Superwinch SX10 12V Electric Winch with Synthetic Rope

If you plan on going off-road, a winch is undoubtedly an essential item to have.

My choice was the Superwinch SX10 with a 29m synthetic rope. Superwinch is a proven and reliable manufacturer. An alternative could be Warn, but it is a bit more expensive. In the case of the Suzuki Jimny, a winch with a pulling capacity of 4500kg should be more than enough.

A special main power switch has also been installed, allowing you to disconnect the power supply to the winch in emergencies. It also allows you to disconnect the power supply when the charger is not in use.

Synthetic rope is lighter and more flexible than the steel one. It reduces the potential for damage. It does not require a special mat to dampen the recoil, which is required for steel rope. Synthetic rope does not tend to snap under tension with the same force as steel, which makes it safer. Synthetic rope does not corrode, is easy to unwind and rewind, and does not cut your hands like frayed steel. It should also not freeze as easily. In addition to being more susceptible to abrasion, synthetic rope is better in every way than steel. Hence my decision.

The pulley

This brilliantly simple design can be used to create some advanced techniques for pulling a vehicle out of trouble.

The pulley can be used to change the direction of the rope pull, which is useful when it is not possible to align the winch in a straight line with the object you want to pull. Using a pulley can reduce the load on the winch and reduce wear on its mechanism, which extends its life.

The pulley doubles the force of the winch – by mounting the rope so that it passes through the pulley, the load is divided between two points. Using one pulley can “double” the pull, and using more pulleys increases the force even more.

The rope exits the winch → passes through the pulley → returns to the vehicle.

Using a shackle or other connector, attach the block to the webbing or strap you previously installed around the anchor point. Feed the rope through the block and hook it back to the vehicle. The rope will pull through the block, reducing the load on the winch while doubling the pulling force.

Simple but so effective!

Tree belt

The tree strap protects the anchor point (e.g. tree) from damage by spreading the force over a larger surface area, which prevents the rope from cutting into it. It also provides greater stability and safety by protecting both the winch rope from abrasion and the anchor from excessive pressure. This makes winching operations safer and more efficient.

Synthetic shackle

Here too I prefer synthetic. It’s the only option for synthetic rope. As with rope, synthetic shackles have the same advantages.

Long live synthetic!

Lighting system

Off-road riding after dark has a unique and unrepeatable atmosphere. I remember the first time I went on a night trip with Michał (who helped me create my JB74). He lit up the entire area in his Suzuki Samurai, while I was dependent only on the front light.

I can’t imagine a longer trip without 360 lighting.

Ledbar Siberia Next Level 38″

A powerful beast that gives a lot of light both at a distance and illuminating what is on the sides. Even though this LED bar is not bent, it shines wide, giving enough light to the sides of the vehicle.

Mounting the LED bar above the windshield can limit visibility in dust, especially when driving in difficult off-road areas. Light placed high above the vehicle can reflect off the rising dust, dirt, or fog, creating a blinding effect. In such conditions, additional lights mounted lower – at the bumper level – work better, which minimizes this effect and better illuminates the road under the layer of dust. That is why two powerful Dark Knight Fortex work lamps hidden in a small housing were mounted on the front.

Dark Knight Fortex

The Dark Knight Fortex work light shines with a power of 3200 lumens, which in total gives a little over half the power of the LED bar. Its main advantage is the ability to adjust the color temperature of the light to current needs – you can choose between 4000K (for driving in rain or snow), 5000K, and 6000K (ideal for bright, cloudless nights). The lamp also has a red position light, which not only improves visibility but also gives it a characteristic, attractive appearance.

Fortex features a solid construction, covered with a special coating that protects against stone chips, making it extremely durable. It is also waterproof at IP68/IP69K, which ensures reliability in the harshest off-road conditions. Thanks to the 180-degree adjustment range, you can precisely adjust the angle of the light, and the DT4 connector prevents water and dirt from entering.

Side and rear lighting

On the sides went two cheapest 6 LED 18W work lamps with diffused light. The same one landed on the back. In this case, I cut costs. For now, I’m happy with the effect.

What I will definitely do additionally is cut out shades for these lamps from red transparent plexiglass, to have nice camping lighting that won’t glare during night cooking and resting.

The rear lamp was mounted on the Front Runner ladder. The cable ran easily through the seal into the interior, where it then runs under the plastic to the controller.

Switch Panel

Here again, cost-cutting and a Chinese Universal Switch Panel with a panel were ordered on AliExpress on Michał’s recommendation. The controller, tested in various conditions, works great and it seems that it will serve for a long time without failure.

Pedders 2″ suspension kit

The most important modification in the case of Suzuki Jimny. I decided on a 2″ lift because it does not require additional activities such as replacing brake lines. Today, after a year of use, I regret that I did not immediately go for a bigger lift. From what I know, the 3.5″ lift works quite well in the JB74.

What gives a lift?

Lift is simply raising the suspension. It is worth noting that the lift does not increase the ground clearance but raises the body relative to the bridges. However, it allows for the installation of larger wheels, which already increase the ground clearance.

By extending the work of the shock absorbers, the lift also increases the cross-section. This translates into better off-road capabilities. In bumpy terrain, the wheels reach the ground while maintaining traction.

The greater the lift, the better the off-road capabilities, but the worse the vehicle’s behavior in normal driving, especially on bends.

Suzuki Jimny Pedders 2″ Lift

Better quality, thicker, longer springs and shock absorbers not only raise the vehicle but above all incomparably better vehicle behavior. Road bumps are dampened, and Jimny does not rock on bends. Pedders is a much stiffer and harder suspension compared to the factory one. Thanks to this, it compensates for the increased vehicle weight due to the additives.

The behavior on and off-road with the Pedders 2″ suspension is incomparably better. I think mounting a roof rack and a tent in a hard shell on the factory suspension would be a disaster.

In addition to the suspension kit itself, the following were also needed:

• Frame beam lowering kit under the front driveshaft
• Correcting eccentric bushes at the front axle

Underbody covers

Having learned from my experience of off-road motorcycle trips, I decided to buy a full set of protective chassis elements. After just one season, some elements turned out to be salvageable.

Engine and front axle cover

This cover has already slid over rocks several times, effectively protecting the Jimny’s heart.

This is the most important cover that protects both the engine and the front axle from hitting terrain obstacles. Especially important when overcoming deep obstacles, where contact with the ground is frequent. Crossing rivers without an engine cover is asking for trouble.

The 6mm thick aluminum plate from Heavy Cruiser does not require drilling, but fitting it and installing it (especially without a workshop with a pit) is a real pain. Unfortunately, such large elements are often not precisely made, and additionally, during transport, small bends can occur, which ultimately translate into laborious installation.

Reducer cover

The Heavy Cruiser transfer case guard protects the drivetrain in difficult terrain.

Fuel tank cover

You wouldn’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere without fuel. The Heavy Cruiser fuel tank guard provides protection against punctures or damage, especially on rocky trails.

Shock absorber covers – rear

Small but sometimes sufficient shock absorber covers from Heavy Cruiser.

Front Runner ladder

Initially, the ladder was mainly used to get to the roof rack, but after installing the SNAILER roof tent, it is now mainly used to enter the tent. Thanks to it, there is no need to use an additional ladder for the tent.

It’s a bit narrow, and climbing it may seem uncomfortable at first, but after a few climbs, you can get used to it. I like to use the spare wheel when climbing onto the roof.

In my case, the ladder was also useful as an element to which Michał and I attached a holder for the rear light.

Front Runner Roof Rack

The Front Runner aluminum modular roof rack seems to me to be one of the best available on the market. It’s not the cheapest, but it’s well-made and well-thought-out.

The aerodynamic profile with an additional deflector reduces air resistance and reduces noise and fuel consumption.

The rails with beams and frames provide truly enormous possibilities for mounting various elements. Michał and I installed the entire lighting system without any problems, elegantly and professionally.

The Font Runner rack offers a huge variety of additional mounts, e.g. for a bicycle. You can also easily mount boxes on it.

Currently, I have a SNAILER tent mounted on the trunk, which fits perfectly into the line of the trunk and the vehicle.

Rotopax mount on spare wheel

I used the Rotopax spare tire mount for my Jeep Wrangler. After widening one hole, everything fits like it should. The mount is adjustable in length (to fit a variety of tire widths) from 4 to 7 inches (10 to 17.78 cm) and has “beans” in 2 of the 3 mounting holes.

Link to mount: Rotopax spare tire mount – Jeep Wrangler

SNAILER rooftop hardshell tent

The SNAILER tent is now permanently installed on my Suzuki Jimny. Full review available in a separate post:

Bison Gear molle panels

Together with my Suzuki Jimny, I went to Bison Gear headquarters, where a 3D scan of the car interior was made. Then the Bison Gear team designed the panels – the first products in their offer for the Suzuki Jimny JB74. Soon after, I received the finished elements, which fit perfectly.

Bison Gear’s powder-coated Molle panels provide unlimited cargo capacity. In a vehicle as small as the Jimny, every inch of space counts.

Bison Gear panels do not require drilling and anyone can easily install them in just a few minutes.

Product link: MOLLE panels for Suzuki Jimny IV (JB74, 2018+)

Bison Gear Jimny shelf

Another product created by Bison Gear is an expedition shelf, on which not only can you put a lot of luggage – it offers great possibilities for hanging various types of items.

Product link: Roof shelf for Suzuki Jimny IV (JB74, 2018+)

Side fold-out panel

This time, the Chinese one is almost 3x cheaper than the alternatives. I was a bit worried about the quality, but I have nothing to complain about. However, you can complain about a lot of things that you want to have on hand during the trip.

I use the table mainly for making coffee and as a workspace when camping. In the future, I’ll probably mask half of the grate to have a uniform surface for smaller items. There are two extendable brackets at the bottom, for which I also need to think of better attachments than a piece of Velcro.

Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 215/75 R15 100 S

The Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 in size 215/75 R15 100 S are all-terrain (A/T) tires that perform well both on and off-road. This model is a popular choice among off-road enthusiasts thanks to its durability and versatility. The tires have a load index of 100 (up to 800 kg per tire) and a speed index of S (maximum speed up to 180 km/h).

I decided to buy all-season tires because, in Poland’s unpredictable weather conditions, this is the best option in my opinion. Tires mounted, the subject is over until they wear out. Traction on snow and icy roads is very good. Geolandar AT tires have the 3PMSF (Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake) certification. This is the only indicator of a winter tire that confirms its properties on snow. They are verified in demanding tests.

ATs work best in the rain, which is quite important in the case of rear-wheel drive and such a short car as the Jimny.

What’s worth adding, they glide through the desert like Dakar vehicles! Yokohama Enduro Compound technology provides better resistance to cuts and punctures, which is crucial when riding on rocky trails.

The only downside is riding in the mud. Here, unfortunately, the MT is unmatched.

Other

Recovery ramps

The traps are light, don’t take up much space, and if you get stuck in mud or sand, you just throw them under the wheels and keep riding! At least in theory. Although they have saved my skin on the trail more than once. In combination with a winch, such traps can do a lot.

AUER boxes

During a visit to Bison Gear headquarters, Paweł recommended inexpensive, good-quality plastic crates from AUER.

The ones that worked best for me were the crates with open handles and latches. I also attached Velcro tape to them. This way, even when riding off-road, the crates stick to the base of the trunk. Connected one on top of the other, they also hold solidly. You can ride off-road without worrying about the contents spilling all over the trunk.

Depending on my needs, I use several sizes interchangeably, which I set up freely depending on my needs. For example, I keep a supply of food in one, various tools in another, and yet another serves as a rescue box.

The boxes I use: Skrzynki EURO

Tinted windows

Simple thing. Better aesthetics from the outside and some privacy in the trunk. 3 windows in the back have been tinted.

What’s next?

This is not the end of the expansion of my JB74, next will probably be:

• Snorkel
• A bigger lift and bigger wheels?
• CB radio
• Awning
• A water tank and shower
• A heating system for the tent?
• Solar panels?
• A reversing camera and a video recorder

So I invite you to update in some time. If you have any more interesting suggestions – share them in the comment below.

Post Suzuki Jimny (JB74) – my ultimate overlanding vehicle pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Why did I choose a rooftop tent, and why a hardshell? I’ll do my best to explain everything below.

All technical specifications can be found on the manufacturer’s website – SNAILER Alduo roof tent – while I will focus on my personal experiences and observations. Enjoy the reading!

Why a hardshell rooftop tent?

Initially, I considered soft-shell tents, primarily due to their lower price.

I was also attracted to the idea of a soft-shell roof tent because extending it to the side provides a bit of shelter above your head. However, the reality is that it doesn’t serve as a true replacement for an awning. In the end, though, the numerous advantages of a hard-shell tent won me over.

The closed shell offers excellent protection

The hard shell ensures complete safety for the sleeping area against all weather conditions, so I don’t have to worry about water or dust getting inside the tent.

When closed, the SNAILER Alduo tent measures just 17.5 cm in height!

Possibility of installing additional accessories

Hardshell roof tents typically feature a rail that allows you to attach various accessories. With the SNAILER Alduo rooftop tent, you can mount M6 flat-head screws or insert a half-nut into the rail. This setup enables you to attach practically anything—from hooks and tool holders to traction board mounts. Ladder hooks and the handle for opening the tent are also mounted in this manner.

Extra space on the roof

Having a rooftop tent on your off-road vehicle doesn’t mean sacrificing luggage space—this is especially true with a hard-shell tent.

You can easily attach various elements to the hardshell rooftop tent. Currently, I have railings installed (only one is shown in the photos because I lost the screws while tinkering before the expedition) that can hold traction boards and an emergency box with ease. In the future, I also plan to mount solar panels.

Roof tent mounting

The tent can be mounted on railings, allowing it to sit as low as possible.

In my case, the SNAILER roof tent is installed on the Front Runner Slimline II (KRSJ003T) roof rack, which weighs 26 kg. This setup enables me to remove the tent when it’s not in use, preserving valuable luggage space.

While I don’t plan on taking the tent off, I keep the roof rack on “just in case.” The second reason for this is that I already have the entire lighting system installed on the roof rack.

The SNAILER Alduo tent weighs 68 kg, and together with the rack, LED bar, lights, and cables, the total weight on the roof is nearly 100 kg.

What do you need to install a roof tent?

Roof rack or railings

The SNAILER Alduo tent, like other rooftop tents, can be easily mounted on railings, meaning you don’t necessarily need an off-road vehicle to sleep on the roof.

A roof rack is typically found on most off-road vehicles, and one of its universal applications is the ability to mount a rooftop tent. However, with so many different roof racks available, it’s best to consult the tent manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

In my case, with my Jimny and the Front Runner rack, the tent’s mounting beam had to be shortened slightly.

Optional: Suspension

The suspension must be adequate to handle the increased load capacity, which is crucial given the added weight, especially on the roof.

I have the Pedders +2″ Suspension Kit installed in my Suzuki Jimny. This not only boosted the load capacity but also significantly improved the vehicle’s handling. In the case of the Suzuki Jimny 2018+, the factory suspension should be replaced immediately, even without a rooftop tent. Of course, each vehicle is different.

Driving with a roof tent

Fuel consumption

I was concerned that the design would lead to significantly higher fuel consumption. I estimate that it increased by about 1 L/100 km, but that’s just an approximation.

In a short period, I added numerous elements to my expedition Jimny, which increased the weight and compromised the already average aerodynamics of the small, boxy car.

Currently, when driving economically and avoiding aggressive acceleration with all my modifications and the tent on the roof, my fuel consumption is around 7.5-8.5 L/100 km. Before making any modifications, I believe I achieved fuel consumption in the range of 6-7 L/100 km. If you also own a Jimny, let me know in the comments how your fuel consumption compares!

Wind

The first week of testing the tent was a real baptism of fire. On my return from Italy, the Jimny drove the entire route through Storm Boris, facing heavy rainfall and wind gusts of up to 100 km/h, which tried to throw the vehicle off track. Fortunately, nothing of the sort happened.

In the case of the Jimny, the tent extends slightly at the front, which could be felt during gusts of wind. However, you won’t notice the tent much in moderate or slightly windy conditions. It’s worth emphasizing again that modifying the suspension is crucial, as it has the greatest impact on steering performance.

Wind noise

Due to their rigid, streamlined construction, hard-shell tents should generate significantly less noise than those covered with fabric.

However, I noticed virtually no difference in noise with the Jimny.

There was, however, a whistle caused by a small gap between the rack and the tent. I easily resolved this issue by inserting a rubber strip into the rack rail. Now, the tent rests on the rubber strip at both the front and back, sealing the connection and dampening potential vibrations between the rack and the tent.

It’s worth noting that each vehicle is different, and various mounts can produce different levels of noise. Therefore, I can only comment on my specific experience.

In short, with the SNAILER Alduo roof tent attached to the Front Runner rack (with a deflector), there is virtually no sound generated by the tent.

Setting up and folding down the Snailer Alduo tent

And here we are talking about seconds…

Real magic! In literally just a few seconds, we can set up the tent, and with a few more seconds, it’s tightly packed away.

For someone like me, who values process and time optimization, this is an absolute delight!

This optimization allows you more time to set up the rest of the campsite. Imagine you’re on a trip and want to take a quick nap after lunch. You can simply pop open your tent anywhere in the bushes, and within 15 minutes, you’re all set to relax.

Setting up the SNAILER Alduo rooftop tent

Simply unfasten two buckles and give the handle a gentle push — the hydraulic cylinders take care of the rest.

You can set up two canopy stretchers without even stepping inside the tent. I store the canopy and ladder neatly behind the armchairs.

The entire operation takes several seconds.

Folding the SNAILER Alduo roof tent

After extending the poles, simply pull the strap. Before closing, push the fabric walls inward from both sides, ensuring nothing sticks out of the shell—just 5 quick moves. The attached rubber strap helps guide the tent fabric inside. The top closes smoothly with the help of the actuators, and you’re all set.

The entire operation takes several dozen seconds.

The interior of the SNAILER tent

Fabric covering

The aluminum part is covered with a soft-touch fabric that prevents condensation from forming and dripping down the aluminum surface due to moisture from breathing.

This is an important feature to consider when choosing a roof tent with an aluminum cover.

SNAILER ensures both sides of the interior are fully lined with fabric that retains moisture, preventing it from condensing and running down the walls. Without this, you might wake up with wet feet in the morning.

Mattress

This is a big positive surprise: the mattress, made in Slovakia, is the world’s first two-layer mattress that comes with a rooftop tent. Unlike other brands, you won’t need to upgrade to a more comfortable mattress—this one comes with a tent and is top-tier.

The mattress features two 3.5 cm layers. The lower, firmer layer offers great support, even if you lean on your hands or sit on your knees. The upper layer is soft foam for a cozy, restful sleep. Honestly, I sleep better on this 6 cm mattress than in my own bed.

The entire mattress is wrapped in a double-sided, zippered cover. The top layer is soft and comfortable, while the bottom is made of waterproof rubber for extra protection.

Condensation mat

The mattress sits on a condensation mat, one of the most crucial yet often overlooked components. SNAILER has ensured that under no circumstances will the mattress become damp, keeping it dry and comfortable throughout your trip.

Why a condensation mat in a roof tent?

The condensation mat not only enhances the mattress’s elasticity but also creates an air layer between the tent floor and the mattress. This allows moisture, which is sometimes unavoidable when camping, to evaporate without coming into contact with the mattress. As a result, the mattress stays completely dry, even in the most challenging conditions.

I’ve already tested the tent during high humidity and several days of downpours, and the mattress remained dry throughout. There’s no risk of moisture issues, even on multi-day expeditions.

LED strip

The SNAILER Alduo roof tent includes an LED strip that can be controlled via a cable when connected to a power bank, offering adjustable brightness across several levels.

While it’s a cool feature, I’m not a fan of the white, hospital-like light—it’s not ideal before bed either. I’d prefer a warm light option, with the ability to switch to a red mode, which doesn’t attract insects or mosquitoes. Thankfully, it’s easy to swap out the LED strip yourself if you want to make that change.

Clothes net

In the tent, you can easily change into your pajamas and store your clothes in the net, keeping them out of the way without taking up any sleeping space. In the morning, everything is organized, and you’re ready to go without any hassle.

Pockets for small items

There are two spacious pockets on each side of the tent, perfect for storing small items you always want close at hand.

Seal and zippers

The quality of the sealing, material bonding, and zippers is excellent. What I particularly appreciate is that every component of the tent can be unfastened. In case of any damage, you won’t have to worry about sending the entire tent for repairs.

Entry openings in the SNAILER roof tent

The tent features two symmetrical entrances on the sides and one large entrance at the back, all equipped with two layers: a fabric layer that fully closes the space and a mosquito net for insect protection. This setup offers numerous options for regulating temperature and airflow.

While mosquito nets allow air to flow through, they do slightly obstruct it, which is beneficial on colder days, ensuring a comfortable sleep without the worry of freezing. When the fabric layer is closed, it provides complete insulation from wind and cold. By opening or tilting the opposite windows, you can promote air circulation and enjoy a pleasant breeze. You can also close the side walls, leaving only the mosquito net at the back, eliminating the risk of getting too cold. The variety of options for regulating temperature and airflow is truly impressive—we could write an entire article about it!

The rear door features the opposite layering compared to the side doors—here, the fabric layer is on the outside, which prevents water from entering the tent when pitching it in the rain before deploying the canopy. Additionally, the main door includes a built-in bar that keeps it from flapping in the wind, even if it’s not fully zipped.

The side doors have the fabric layer on the inside, allowing for a quick closure of the tent when the temperature begins to drop.

How to sleep in a roof tent?

As often as possible!

But seriously, I just wanted to mention that the Outwell Contour Lux Double sleeping bag works wonderfully. With two of my favorite pillows, it provides everything you need for a good night’s sleep in a roof tent. I leave a thick duvet and those pillows in the tent while traveling, so when I open it, everything is ready for bed.

The SNAILER Alduo tent is big and spacious enough for two people to sleep comfortably. For reference, I’m 181 cm tall.

Accessories for the SNAILER Alduo tent

Ladder

The telescopic ladder, with a maximum height of 230 cm, weighs just 6 kg, making it one of the lightest ladders of its kind.

I store the ladder in a cover behind the armchairs instead of inside the tent.

This way, I avoid having a potentially wet or dirty ladder where I sleep. I also don’t have to reach into the tent when folding or unfolding it, which significantly speeds up the process. Plus, I reduce the load on the roof by 6 kg.

The ladder is so quick and easy to use that I will end this topic in the sentence you are reading right now.

Hooks and bags for shoes

The SNAILER Alduo rooftop tent also includes two waterproof bags with mesh bottoms.

These bags are perfect for leaving your dirty or wet shoes in before entering the tent. They’re well-designed to keep moisture from seeping through, even during heavy downpours, while allowing wet shoes to drip and dry through the mesh.

Summary

A rooftop tent on an off-road vehicle is not just the beginning of a completely different style of traveling; it also enhances comfort and saves time.

Why choose the SNAILER Alduo? After reading this review, I hope you understand why. For a long time, I tried to convince myself to go for a “soft tent,” but the numerous advantages of a hard-shell tent ultimately led me to choose the SNAILER Alduo. It’s incredibly well thought out, refined, and offered at an affordable price.

The tested tent will remain in my small off-road vehicle for good. If this article has helped you decide whether to get a rooftop tent and which one to choose, I can confidently recommend the Alduo model from SNAILER, which I have thoroughly tested: https://snailer.eu/roof-tents/1-snailer-alduo-rooftop-tent.html

SNAILER Tents

Get €100 off when you buy a Snailer tent!

Use promo code: ADVANYWHERE

https://snailer.eu

Top-quality rooftop tents that elevate your camping experience to new heights. These durable hardshell rooftop tents, designed in Slovakia, feature locally manufactured, extra-thick mattresses for the ultimate sleep experience.

My review of the Alduo Rooftop Tent:
SNAILER Alduo Rooftop tent – review

Photo gallery of the SNAILER roof tent on the Suzuki Jimny

Post SNAILER Alduo Rooftop tent – review pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Since some of you have been following my journeys on Tenere 700, I have been asking you how to combine three elements that do not work together. So for me, it looks like this:

Adventure Specs Rack + HP Corse high exhaust

First of all – why this duo?

Adventure Specs Racks

I chose side panels for the Tenere 700 because they provide solid protection for the motorcycle’s rear when I ride without luggage. While it’s hard for the Tenere 700 to land accidentally, hitting the ground with its rear end, it’s happened to me many times.

However, when driving with luggage, I have a solid stiffening to which I can attach my luggage and not worry about something flying, loose, or sliding to the side, such as roll bags. During “active” off-road riding, I have often seen my friends’ bags slip to one side, which can result in them collecting their luggage from the mud. Additionally, even though we use soft bags, it does not mean that they will not destroy the original plastics during vibrations and movements. That’s why, for me, the side panels are worth attention. The only downside is, of course, the extra weight.

Why Adventure Spec and not some other company? I have tried other products, but in my opinion, they were unusable and poorly designed. In short, AS has rounded edges, so you won’t cut the straps after the first trip. Secondly, and most importantly, AS has a sufficiently large distance from the plastics, so you can easily put the straps with a buckle through them. Other companies make these panels (especially the back) too close to the plastic and it is simply impossible to move either the belts or the bungee strap.

HP Corse high exhaust

Before I bought the Tenere 700, during off-road driving training, I witnessed how the factory exhaust flexed due to minor rolls or emergency positions of the motorcycle. When my XT660ZA was flying through the bushes, my friend from T7 kept straightening the soft exhaust mount, which after some time became almost rubbery. Additionally, the swing arm is damaged. It didn’t look good. I wondered why Yamaha didn’t let the exhaust go through the top in the Tenere 700, like in the XT660ZA. I still don’t know, but fortunately, the accessory engineers had the same question and that’s probably how the HP Corse titanium exhaust was created. After a lot of research, I found two more companies that made a high exhaust for the Tenre 700, but both of them were not homologated, were made of steel, large and without dB Killer. The choice fell on HP Corse.

Additional problems with HP Corse

As a bonus, it is worth mentioning the mounting of the board. Of course, installing a high exhaust on the Tenere 700 means that the exhaust ends directly where the turn signal falls. A few kilometers and the turn signal will be burned out. Therefore, together with the exhaust, you should buy HP Corse Tidy Tail. And here there is no point in looking for alternatives. I had other tidy tails and they fell apart. A simple solution, one bent sheet metal from HP Corse, and everything is as it should have been since the T7 left the factory.

Additionally, instead of mounting the turn signals to the board, I drilled holes in the plastic behind the back and connected small LEDs there. This way I can be sure that when the motorcycle overturns, I will not break the turn signals.

How to make it work?

Of course, nothing can ever match, same with the HP Corse exhaust and Adventure Specs panels.

The problem occurs because the AS attaches to the passenger footrest. Additional mounting and screws interfere with the exhaust pipe. You can omit the passenger footrests and then everything should be fine, but I didn’t want to lose the potential of carrying a backpack.

We will need two small modifications:

Mounting element for the footrest.
Instead of the original mounting plates, AS must use other, low-profile ones. It is a threaded plate made of 5 mm sheet metal.

In my case it is a piece of sheet metal that could easily be thinner, which would then increase the clearance between the footrest and the exhaust. A screw with a different head will also increase the clearance, but I used the AS mounting screw. The clearance for me is about 1-2mm, but I haven’t noticed it decreasing due to any vibrations. I’ll probably leave it at that.

Exhaust attachment point distance.
By minimally lowering the mounting point, we will move the exhaust away from the footrest by a few mm. All you need are two steel plates in which we will drill two holes. It can be done nicer, but I like such ugly solutions.

Adventure Spec racks + Kriega bags

It is worth mentioning here that AS has large holes that provide many possibilities, unlike other companies that make holes only for appearance and do not check, for example, what fastenings the bags have.

Kriega bags can be mounted in many ways, I used Kriega Subframe Loops, which are permanently attached under the passenger seat. Only loops are released from under the seat and OS-12 or OS-18 buckles are attached to them. I personally used the straps attached to my Kriega US-40 bag, because this bag is by default mounted to the couch in this way. Well, I have an Adventure Spec rear frame, so the loops remain free.

The upper straps are attached to loop straps and the lower straps are placed through the AS panel. This way, the luggage stays stable and there is no possibility of any damage to any of the elements.

Summary

As a fan of good design, my choices are often guided by functionality, but also by subjectively good appearance. The combination of my favorite and reliable Krieg luggage, well-thought-out design (unlike the competition) of Adventure Specs panels and the HP Corse exhaust that sounds and looks beautiful and solves the “only” disadvantage of the Tenere 700, made my machine look and work as you see. With a little help, everything came together and works great. I hope it will be an inspiration for many, or a guideline on how to live with Tenere 700.

PS, as a Krieg fan, I managed to establish cooperation with a Polish distributor, so you can see that Kriega products can be purchased in my online store. Shopping through my blog contributes in a small way to the development of the AdvAnywhere project. Therefore, if you are planning to buy something from Krieg, I strongly encourage you to order from me.

https://advanywhere.com/shop

Have a wide and safe road!

Post Adventure Spec + HP Corse + Kriega pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

Post Treasures of Serbia pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.

All photos were taken during the polar night at temperatures ranging from -22°C to -40°C.

Post Arctic Expedition pojawił się na AdvAnywhere.